Kicking Out

To Market

2011-12-23T06:23:00.001-08:00

Friday is one of the three market days in Fethiye, when farmers from the surrounding countryside (as far away as the Banana Coast) come to sell their wares. Heaps of greens, from nettles to bunches of arugula (25 cents each!), sit alongside 3 foot long leeks, sugar sweet seedless mandarins (50 cents a pound!), home cured olives and olive oil, raw milk, strawberries, kiwi fruit, quince, and an endless assortment of the freshest fruits and vegetables... it is a foodie's paradise. Products are priced by the kilo, and the vendors don't seem to like dealing with less than 1/2 kilo, so it would be hard to shop for one person! After they weigh your selection using old fashioned iron counterweights, they usually throw in a couple extra pieces of what you just bought as a kind of bonus.

After the Friday market is a stop at the fish market, probably the best thing about Fethiye. Fresh locally caught fish, calamari and prawns from the Mediterranean and hamsi (anchovies) shipped from the Black Sea crowd for space in an open air square in the middle of town. If you want to eat your selection on the spot, any one of the restaurants around the square will cook it up per your specifications and serve it up with bread and salad for around $3 per person.

Clear weather after a week of rain

Tomorrow is Christmas and Helena is cooking dinner for 15 people - a collection of expats from various countries. Otherwise, I would probably just forget that it's Christmastime since it is all business-as-usual in this Muslim country.

Muzistan (Bananamur)

2011-12-22T08:34:00.000-08:00

Anamur (which Helena termed Bananamur) is the banana capitol of Turkey and is filled with large greenhouses and fields of banana trees. Bananas in Turkey??? Yes, I was surprised too. Yet I didn't take any photos of the many roadside muz (banana) stands, including the one calling itself Muzistan (meaning Banana Land). Sorry.

The Banana Coast - looking west

Actually, it looked like most of the southeast coast was planted with bananas. But only Anamur had not one, but two banana themed statues in town (again, no photos!).

Ruined Large Bath House

The real draw for the area is Anemurium - an ancient city now just stone ghosts, occupied by the Phoenecians starting in the 4th century B.C. The ruins still there date from the late Roman and early Byzantine periods, and the general belief is that a massive earthquake in 580 A.D. ruined most of the buildings and drove people from the town.

The site is remarkable for its setting and its number of intact living structures. Helena and I spent a good deal of time wandering through, speculating on the way people utilized the small domed stone structures (some of which still had visible frescoes on the walls and mosaics on the floors, although most have been moved to a museum in town). We even spotted a couple tortoises taking it easy and many different species of birds thriving in this peaceful ghost town.

Anemurium 2,000 year old houses

Looking east at Anemurium and beyond

Mamure Castle

After Anemurium we raced the incoming weather to visit Mamure Castle, just south of Anamur, and from a completely different time in history. It dates from the 13th century, built on the site of an old Roman fortress (it is common in Turkey to see the "repurposing" of old stone foundations). The castle was taken in the 14th century by the Seljuk Turks, who added a mosque and baths.

Although the castle has been renovated several times, it has retained its medieval feel - which sparked our imaginations with tales of guards and kings and escapes to the sea.

Tortoise friend at Anemurium

Running from the Rain

2011-12-20T11:12:00.000-08:00

Inside our Pansiyon

Morning broke cloudy. More rain on the way. Helena and I decided to rent a car and head east for a few days, hoping to find promised warmer and drier weather (Fethiye is notoriously cold and damp in comparison to the rest of the southern coast).

Old Ottoman Era building

Morning in old Antalya

We made it to Antalya, at the center of Turkey's south coast before the early darkness of winter, and found a pansiyon in the kaleci (old town).

We were pleasantly surprised at the tidy cobble streets and restored Ottoman buildings, as our previous time in Antalya was only at the boat harbor outside of town. The old town also held Roman ruins and later fortifications - all a continuous flow of history, punctuated by souvenir shops and shuttered-for-the-winter nightclubs.

Me at Hadrian's Gate

Goddess Athena

In the morning we walked around more of the old town before heading to the Antalya Museum, known for its collection of fine marble statues, as well as prehistoric artifacts from a nearby cave that is believed to have been continuously occupied for 20,000 years.

It was a lovely walk in the warm sun; we were basking in it! Unfortunately by the the time we left the museum the rain had caught up with us and we drove out of town in a downpour that instantly flooded the streets.

So we outran it. Straight east along the coast and after a short while it was again sunny and warm and now looking a lot like the coast of California. Citrus trees heavily laden everywhere (including orange trees in the traffic medians) have replaced the ubiquitous fruiting fig and pomegranate trees of September. But harvested pomegranates are still at full sweet and juice stalls are set up everywhere for a fresh squeeze.

Thunderclouds

2011-12-17T08:19:00.000-08:00

Fresh snow on the local mountains

Friday brought the weekly local food market (a smaller version of Tuesday's with just food stalls), and torrential rain, thunder and lightning. Luckily we were able to do our shopping in relative dryness before the downpour started, at which point we retreated to a lokanta for some cheap eats and hot tea. e puzzled over one of our purchase (see photo), a local product only available in December. Thank god for Google, as we later were able to identify it as the fruit of the Japanese raisin tree - something I definitely have never seen before. And the funny looking fruit tastes like, you guessed it, raisins!

Saturday was dry so we met up with Jake and Lucia and Eldar and some of their American friends for a hike back to Kaya town - the abandoned village we visited the first day. The hike was the draw, as we ascended steeply through damp and fragrant pine forests, to meet up with an old Roman road linking Fethiye and Kaya, complete with ruined stone cisterns spaced periodically along the way. By the time we arrived we were all starving and descended on one of the few open cafes in search of goezleme (Turkish kind of quesadilla) and many glasses of tea. Luckily there is a dolmus (mini-bus) linking the towns too, since we were pretty knackered from the 4 hour hike.

Walking Around

2011-12-14T07:23:00.000-08:00

Wednesday was the day for a big walk. The sun was out, and in the sunshine it was blessedly warm, evoking memories of the long ago summer. Helena and I got the dogs (Badger's 2 Jack Russell terriers) and set out on what turned out to be a 3+ hour walk around a hilly peninsula west of Fethiye. When we reached the back side we were rewarded with stunning vistas of the Mediterranean and Greek islands to the west. The photo shows the typical pine trees that form the coastal forests, and the crystal clear water of the Med (away from the stinky Fethiye marinas).

Above is the view from the eastern side of the peninsula, looking out at Fethiye and its many bays and marinas. In the distance are snow capped mountains of the coastal range. We all enjoyed the chance to stretch our legs and sweat a bit after being so cold the last few days. We have been riding bikes around but they are all made too small for us - we can't get the seats high enough so that we can fully stretch out our legs!

Balik Ekmek

2011-12-13T05:50:00.000-08:00

I finally had a fish sandwich! Considered an Istanbul classic, a balik ekmek (literally translated as fish bread) shows up anywhere along the coast, kind of like fish tacos in San Diego. But I had never had one before, so I was pleased to plop down my 5 lira (about $2.50) for a crusty French roll stuffed with a battered fish filet, arugula, tomato and chopped onion. More than a meal, served from a floating kitchen on the waterfront.

After the fish sandwich Helena and I went to the Tuesday market, the largest one with all the fruit and veg sellers, plus purveyors of all manner of home cured olives ($2 a pound!), crumbly white cheeses, pine and citrus honey, nuts and spices. This market also had a hundred or so clothing and housewares stalls where you can buy cheap cotton and acrylic knockoffs made in Turkey. We loaded up on supplies for a home cooked dinner (including freshly ground lamb from the butcher for kofte (meatballs)).

While lamb is relatively expensive ($10 a pound), other food is very cheap in Turkey. You can buy enough fruits and vegetables for 2 people for a week for between $5 and $10. Olives, cheese, and yogurt are also ridiculously cheap compared to the States.

Frigid in Fethiye

2011-12-12T07:10:00.000-08:00

My left pinky turns purple

I arrived late at the small regional airport for Dalaman after a short stop in Istanbul, and here I am back in Turkey! My sister decided to live here in the coastal town of Fethiye after our trip here together in September; I had no idea I would be back so soon.I knew the temperatures would be cold at night, akin to San Diego winter temps, but I was wrong and it is much colder. I thought packing all the wool would be overkill but I was wrong. So my hands were quite cold as I was pushing the luggage cart at the airport and I inadvertently crushed a finger in the push mechanism.

small black and white stones make the floor

My first day we rented a car and drove over the hill to Karakoy, a largely abandoned village that was formerly occupied by Greek Orthodox Christians. Now over 4,000 structures stand abandoned as a result of the Turkish - Greek population exchange in 1923 after the Turkish war of independence. Helena and I strolled through the ruined ghost town (the stone houses toppled by the 1957 earthquake that also flattened Fethiye), and enjoyed the warm daytime sunshine.

Not bad for my first day!

One of the many ruined churches

At The Palace

2011-09-26T22:22:00.000-07:00

Me on the ferry leaving Meis/Kastellerizo

We left serene Meis by ferry yesterday, picked up our car in Kas, and drove back to Fethiye, again staying at Jake and Lucia's. Then it was up early to drive to the airport and fly back to Istanbul - nearly a full day's journey with the traffic of this great city.

Meis/Kastellorizo harbor

I will attempt to describe the verdant valleys through which we passed on our drive: the red dirt and pine studded mountain range to the north (I am not sure how high it is but it gets snow in the winter), the red tiled roof houses set amid fields of corn, vineyards of grapes, olive and avocado trees, women in flowery loose pants and colorful headscarves everywhere working in this undeniably fertile landscape. Last evening we were still driving as the sun went down and a thick, warm dusk filled the valleys and warm air rushed through the car windows.

This morning we stopped for breakfast at a restaurant on the road and were reminded of the Turkish hospitality we felt so keenly on our last trip. Our breakfast consisted of 17 different items, from bread to eggs, 2 kinds of olives, 6 kinds of cheese, crepes, butter, honey, cherry preserves... unfortunately we didn't take a photo. After we were done and washed up, we were met at the exit by a waiter bearing the trademark Turkish lemon cologne freshener - a farewell gesture that is just so civilized! The whole experience was so unexpected in this roadside restaurant in the middle of nowhere.

Sea Creatures and the Blue Grotto

2011-09-24T08:09:00.000-07:00

I don't know why I seem to attract all the biting and stinging insects and animals out there...mosquitoes love me, but fortunately we have only had a few of them on this trip (I had to play the great white mosquito hunter the night we spent by the Bodrum airport as they were biting both of us). But the minute we got in the water at Fethiye, I was stung on the legs by unseen jellyfish. Unwisely I ignored the stings and in the morning they were the itchiest welts ever. Over the next few days I attracted more jellyfish and more stings but am now armed with vinegar to neutralize the nematocysts. They can't keep me out of the swimming pool-like water!

Someone told me a long time ago that the Med is a "dead" sea - that all the coral is dead and that there is not much life. While the coral may be long gone, I have seen a surprising number of colorful tropical fish and we even saw an enormous sea turtle in the harbor at Meis/Kastellorizo.

On the second day on Meis, we took a water taxi to see the Blue Cave. The ride in itself was nice and it was surprising to see that the island is quite large, as the only current habitation is on the east side around the harbor. Ancient monasteries still dot the rocky hilltops but it is quite a hike to see them.

Through a tiny opening in rocky coastline we slipped into the Blue Cave - a luminescent cavern that has been aptly named as the water glows blue, which is reflected and forms a blue ceiling. It looks like there are electric lights illuminating it from below! There is a small beach inside the cave and we were told that seals make their home there to pup - a very sheltered area in an otherwise very rocky and unforgiving coastline.

East to West

2011-09-23T23:41:00.000-07:00

Friday dawned clear, calm and warm. Another gorgeous day on the Mediterranean coast. We spent the night in Kas, a very touristy town we had visited on our last trip. We had a less than favorable reaction to the swarms of tourists and were happy to board the ferry for Meis, a tiny Greek island just 20 minutes off the coast of Turkey.

Tiny islet off Meis

Known as Kastellorizo in Greek, the island promised to be a quiet haven to swim, read and work on our tans. It proved to be very - almost eerily - quiet during the day, but starting at about 9 p.m., the restaurant outside our hotel started live music and dancing that went on until after midnight, and loud revelers walked the streets later than that. So another night of the interrupted, fitful sleep that has plagued our trip.

The tranquil natural harbor of Kastellorizo

Jumping from the "eastern" country of Turkey to the "western" country of Greece - even though technically we moved south - there is such a big difference! From the lack of squat toilets to the preponderance of churches (just one mosque left from the Ottoman era), lack of tea drinking, and of course the Greek alphabet instead of the Roman on all signs, menus, etc. It's an interesting change but I am completely unprepared with no book on Greece to reference. We'll survive though - there are lots and lots of English expats and we are here for only 3 days before heading back to Turkey.

Greek Church

North to South

2011-09-22T22:45:00.001-07:00

Since I last posted to the blog Helena and I traversed the country north to south, traveling from the Black Sea in the north to the Mediterranean Sea in the south. We descended by mini-bus, then mega-bus, through deciduous forests starting to show their autumnal colors, to the desert scrub in the middle of the country - Ankara. It was another plush bus experience, with a steward serving drinks and a mid-point tea stop.

In Ankara (the capitol of Turkey) we boarded a plane for Bodrum-Milas, on the Aegean Coast. But that wasn't our final destination. We were bound for Fethiye, further south on the Med coast. So we rented a car and drove, very reminiscent of our 2000 road journey when we drove Antalya to Bodrum and back on the same roads.

The roads were fantastic and uncrowded and we made good time to Fethiye. Helena was driving and I was back backup to keep her on the right side of the road (since she hasn't driven in 6 months, and before that it was only NZ!)

In Fethiye we met up with Lucia and Jake, friends of Helena's from Budapest, and their son Eldar, and they were nice enough to invite into their home for the night. And a what a night it was! Crashing thunder, bolts of lightening and torrential rain - either a late summer storm of early winter, but it was back to sunny and mid-80's the next day, so who knows. In any event, no one could sleep much that night.

Fethiye didn't have much draw for us other than seeing Helena's friends. It is a large harbor for yachties and expats, pretty charmless and overrun with English and German retirees. We did get in a brief swim before the storm hit at a small cove far outside the town frequented only by the Turkish. The first dip in the swimming pool temp of the Med was heavenly!

Sesamos by the Sea

2011-09-19T00:04:00.000-07:00

From Safranbolu, it is only about 80 kilometers due north to the sunny little Black Sea port of Amasra, but by minibus it took nearly 3 hours. The roads are good - surprisingly good, but the bus stopped everywhere!

We arrived to find the town engulfed in blustery cold winds out of the north, making a white-capped mess of the Black Sea. The ports are fairly sheltered, and many Turks were out splashing around off their muddy beaches, but we were too cold to partake. Instead we walked around the rocky promontory jutting north into the sea which once held a Roman fort (est. 70 B.C.) before the fall of the empire.

The area's history actually dates to the 15th century B.C., with the Phoenicians establishing a trading colony in the 12th century B.C. - they named the city Sesamos. The name was later changed by Alexander the Great to "Amastris" in honor of a Persian princess.

I had my first fish meal in Turkey - a super fresh bonito out of the Black Sea, served with salad of local fresh and pickled vegetables (mmmm, pickled cabbage!) Our waiter was the Turkish version of Ernie from Cheers, and although he only spoke 2 words of English, we had a successful dining experience.

Relaxing Ottoman Style

2011-09-18T11:16:00.000-07:00

Our second day in Safranbolu broke bright, clear and crisp. The temperature dipped into the 50's at night, but heated up again to the low 80's during the day - even hotter in the sun. We happened to be in town during the 12th Annual International Documentary Film Festival (we didn't attend), an "antiques" bazaar a.k.a. junk on tables (but interesting junk), and a folk dance demonstration. So we drank cay (Turkish tea, pronounced "chai"), wandered about, and ate more lokum (saffron-flavored!)

Our pension was run by a nice Turkish Muslim couple who spoke English fairly well, and Helena took the opportunity to quiz them about all the different spices and fruits she saw in the market (Turkish cranberries, jujubes, Hawthorne apples, etc.). They also made us a lovely vegetarian lunch - the best food we had in town (we are both over the whole meat thing). The only downside to the pension was the proximity to the loudspeaker on the mosque which blasted a call to prayer at 5:30 a.m. every morning. While we have heard this every morning in Turkey (you can hear the calls across the city in Istanbul), this one was particularly loud. There is no way anyone could sleep through it!

We have been drinking cay like the locals - several times a day, although Helena tells me that normally she drinks much more tea at home. Which led her to query - which country consumes more tea per capita, Britain or New Zealand? Well, as it turns out, it is nearly a tie between Britain and ..... Turkey! Since most people in Turkey don't drink alcohol, it is the tea shop that replaces the pub for a place to gather with friends (backgammon is the game of choice in this country). The photo shows the typical Turkish tea glass, saucer and spoon, and you have to hold the glass at the rim as the tea is piping hot. I usually don't put sugar in my tea, but the intense brewing of Turkish tea leaves it begging for a couple cubes.

Hamam Oh Man

2011-09-17T21:44:00.000-07:00

From guest blogger, Helena:

The twin domes of the hamam are a landmark

We had been to one hamam in Istanbul and I have been to others previously but this one in Safranbolu was by far the most authentic experience for both of us. We had the whole place to ourselves which was luck but felt like absolute luxury. If you have never been, imagine a huge old stone church with a marble altar in the middle and smaller alcoves radiating off it at right angles. There are big marble basins at regular intervals along the walls where you can scoop up bowls of water to douse yourself. There are tiny star shaped holes in the domes that let in light, lots of hot steam, constant sound of running water and all sounds reverberate like mad. I thought of many of my friends that can sing well and how nice it would be if they were there to liven it up. It was quite hot and while I waited on the hot slab marinating till my turn, listening to the staccato slaps of Elizabeth's massage ringing through the high stone cupola like gun shots. I was forced to get up and cool off in a stream of cold water a few times. Our "telallin" or washer took every last bit of skin off, first using a rough black mitt and lots of pressure, then a scratchy pad with soap on it, my skin literally squeaked. We had been peeled and came out all bright and shiny. It was exhausting but we both felt gratifyingly clean.

Inspite of this we still managed to do a fair bit of exploring, discovering the small town and making friends with many of the resident cats and their 'owners'. Some ownerless cats followed us on a long walk, just wanting cuddles and probably out of boredom. We went to visit a huge old house that has been turned into a museum complete with mannequins in exhibits, beautiful old kilim rugs and original features like bathtubs in cupboards and revolving cupboards for women to be able to serve food and not be seen by strange men. it was a fascinating look at Ottoman architecture and lifestyle back before the fall of that empire.

We named these two Stripey and Fluffy

Safranbolu

2011-09-17T11:12:00.000-07:00

About 300 kilometers east of Istanbul is the small UNESCO World Heritage listed town of Safranbolu, so named because it is one of the few places in the world that produces saffron. The town was built mainly during the height of the Ottoman empire and reflects the classic Ottoman architecture of half-timbered stucco houses. Set in a narrow valley, the old town is a microcosm - a step back in time, with mainly tourist shops aimed at the mainly Turkish tourists. Think rough cobblestone streets, vine covered alleyways, tea shops and bakeries....and lokum shops (Turkish delight).
This from Helena on our 7 hour bus ride (!!!) getting here:

Turkish buses don't have onboard toilets. This is good and bad. If you are used to keeping yourself hydrated during the day you need to prepare when faced with a 7 hour+ journey that has unclear stopping times/frequency. As it turned out we were able to pop out several times during the journey "just in case" as the potential discomfort was daunting. It really dawned on us how big the city is seeing as it took us 2 hours to reach the city limit. A bit less than half-way we stopped at a rest station just as you know them in the west. I was astonished to note many differences along the road and this modern rest-stop was so different from the rustic stations of 15 years ago when I was last on a Turkish bus. Here you have the same kinds of tacky souvenirs and overpriced food as the west, but all Turkish. We stocked up on nuts and dates and water. There was some pretty interesting landscape and mountain ranges visible during our journey. Toward the end of our journey we came over a huge high plateau where the air was fresh, cold in the dusk, and dry before heading down toward the coast and our little valley of Safranbolu. We put up in a 300 year old Ottoman house (as they all are here) and our room was typical with a carved wood ceiling and a closet toilet/shower combo which as bright and clean but I can't say that Elizabeth was particularly enamored of our "squatty" toilet. We decided to deal with it and that was fine for a couple nights.

Leaving Istanbul

2011-09-14T04:36:00.000-07:00

Tonight is our last in Istanbul. Tomorrow we move on to Safranbolu, to the east. We are just taking care of a few things, packing up (we had sprawled out in our large flat), and preparing ourselves for the 7 hour bus trip on the morrow.

Yesterday I tried unsuccessfully to visit the Aya Sophia, the famous Byzantine church from the mid 6th century. Four cruise ships are in town, and there was a long line all day, which I just couldn't face in the sun and heat of the day. So I took a stroll through the park below Topkapi Palace, a lovely and rare spot of green in this city. It's there that I spotted the statue of Ataturk (see photo).

Ataturk (Mustafa Kemal) is a national hero - THE founding father of modern Turkey. Not only did he lead the Turkish forces at Gallipoli during World War I, he organized the last vestiges of the Ottoman empire into a unified Turkey, and fought back invading Greeks who had made a major push east after the end of the war (parts of western Turkey historically were part of ancient Greece). As the leader of the new state, he set about modernizing Turkey and making it closer to Europe than the Middle East. Throughout the 1920's and 1930's Turkey adopted the Gregorian calendar (bringing it in line with the West), reformed its alphabet (adopting the Roman script), standardized the Turkish language, outlawed the fez, instituted universal suffrage, and required that Turks adopt surnames, something they had previously gone without. Reading up on Turkey's history, one can understand why there are photos of him everywhere!

Catstanbul... formerly Catstantinople... A guest blog from Helena TCOCL* in the making.

2011-09-13T11:17:00.000-07:00

Ada cafe cat - a rascally thing that loves cuddles

During my last trip to Turkey back one freezing week in November 2008, I discovered two things of note: 1) this fabulous neighborhood of Cihangir in a corner of Beyoglu perched above the Bosphorus and 2) the myriad cats that lounge, decorate, entertain and pervade this corner of the magic ancient city. The chic low-key but super hip neighborhood coupled with the cats and the piles of cat biscuits that cat-loving istanbullus serve up in doorways, street corners and convenient nooks for their feline friends made a huge impression on me then. Now I am back enjoying it in the glory of late summer breezes, amazing food, the civilized blend of a east-west amenities and general yummy exoticness.

{Some may know that the past 6 months has seen me riding out the interminable, unbearable noise, heat, smells and chaos of Delhi - so Cihangir and its cats provide healing balm to my battered senses.}

If you are a cat hater then read no further.

Greeter of tourists

Chora church museum resident will jump on you given half the opportunity - cuddly!

Not only are there many cats but it turns out that they all want to know me, I am assailed by purred greetings, miaos, raised tails in salute when they see me coming REGARDLESS if I am holding anything edible. This is a source of extreme gratification to a TCOCL*.This especially after months of enduring streets full of battered wild dogs and cats that are unloved, run-over, kicked and generally badly treated in India.

Cats enhance the tourist experience

I am daily surprised by seeing the most unlikely men stoop down to pat a cat, invite one onto his lap at a cafe or call out to one in the street. I'm not talking about sensitive intellectual types but all kinds from the crusty old fisherman to the mustachioed tough-guy.

Cat lodging on Buyuk Ada Island

Island cat

Chora Church resident

Young member of the Chora church cat community

Metro cat at Aksaray

Cats are everywhere - except the mosque. Cats in the museums, cafes, shops, restaurants, parks, hanging around the waterfront,

and of course in the bazaar.

Luxurious lingerie store cat

Not only are cats everywhere but also the cat theme is prevalent in shops and art around the city.

Cat art

The Red Cat bookstore

While I am not quite sure that the cat theme is exactly top-of-mind in the Istanbullus psyche, it nevertheless warms my heart to experience a city and its people so obviously loving towards these animals.

* TCOCL: That Crazy Old Cat Lady

yes.. I know... why fight it?

Lazy Days

2011-09-12T11:24:00.000-07:00

Today we had a day at the bazaar, wandering around, seeing what we might be interested in getting when we come back at the end of the month, and getting harassed (as everyone does) by shop owners trying to entice passers by to stop at their shop. Some will even yell "You dropped your money!" to get you to stop so they can get up in your face with a hard sell. Very cheeky.

And again, lots of walking, so not very lazy after all. The photo was taken on our crossing from the Galata Bridge, and shows one of the seven hills on which Istanbul is built. Our place is at the top of that hill. Luckily there are trams that take us up as it gets quite steep in places. Not a walk for every day.

We have 2 more days in Istanbul, but are not too fussed that we didn't see everything. Must save something for next time!

Tiny Tiles

2011-09-11T10:48:00.000-07:00

On Sunday we awoke to another stunning day of Turkish sunshine. Warm and breezy, it was a perfect day for exploring one of the Western districts of the city which holds the Chora Church Museum. We took a long, complicated, tram, metro and walking combo to get close and when I said to Helena, "Well, this is an adventure...", she said "Don't say that! You remember the last time you said that!" Oh yeah, after my adventure proclamation in Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka, a scorpion promptly bit her.

The Chora Church was built in the 11th century by King Theodosious II, but the remaining decoration dates from the 14th century. It was originally a Christian church, but was later converted to a mosque under the Ottomans before being turned into a museum in the 20th century. The draw now is the stunning mosaics inside, which more than make up for the (now) humble exterior.

After the museum we stopped for lunch at a somewhat fancy Ottoman restaurant next door, which boasted recipes dating to the 16th century. Vine leaves stuffed with rice, walnuts and currants, almond soup, and grilled cheese with oyster mushrooms were just some of the specialties we sampled.

We then made the courageous decision to walk back to our flat, when it had taken us nearly 2 hours using public transportation to get there. Walking was more direct and it only took us an hour or so, but it was rough going and by the end we were beat. Helena took photos during our trek, so maybe she'll guest blog and share those.

We thought we'd perk up with a little Turkish Delight (called lokum in Turkish). We hit the sweet shop then hightailed it home for some tea and relaxation. For those of you who don't know, Turkish delight is a kind of gummy/jel/nougat confection that comes in various flavours, some with nuts.

The Istiklal

2011-09-10T21:59:00.000-07:00

Yesterday Helena and I took a break from sight seeing and just did some grocery shopping and explored the area around our flat. We are close to The Istiklal - the main pedestrian boulevard in Istanbul, considered by many to the be the "heart" of Istanbul. It is the in the Beyoglu district, across the Galata Bridge from the old town and main historic sights, so it's mostly Turks, not tourists.

But thankfully we are not too close, as it is very noisy. Every Friday and Saturday evening half the city turns out to "promenade" and eat ice cream from the hundred ice cream shops that line the street. The winding back alleys of The Istiklal contain countless little restaurants and bars, vegetable and antique shops, fish merchants, pastry shops, and "kuafors" - the Turkish interpretation of the French "coiffure" for hair salon. We both got our hair cut in a busy little salon that served us glass after glass of strong Turkish tea.

Topkapi

2011-09-10T07:21:00.000-07:00

I find myself at a loss for words in writing about Turkey. The last 3 posts have been a struggle and I still feel like I haven't conveyed what we are experiencing here in the near-east. Yesterday we went to Topkapi, palace of the Ottoman sultans for over 5 1/2 centuries, which is remarkably well-preserved. It contains many treasures of the empire, including an 86 carat diamond - 5th largest in the world. Constructed of marble and decorated with Iznik (blue patterned) tiles, the palace has retained its serenity through the centuries and makes a pleasant place to while away the hours. (see photos)

After the palace, we went to a 300 year old hamam - a Turkish bath - for my first Turkish bath experience. Constructed entirely of marble, the bath has separate entrances and facilities for men and women. Inside, we were issued a towel and a relaxation cubicle to prepare for or steam and rub-down. After stripping down, we made our way slowly (in wooden platform slippers to avoid the slippery floor) to a large, dome crowned marble steam room with faucets and marble sinks all around, and smaller steam rooms to the sides. On an octagonal platform in the middle, women were getting scrubbed and pummeled by black leotard-clad older Turkish women. Lots of water flowing across marble floors to carved troughs and drains, very steamy and no-nonsense. Apparently, there are other hamams in the city operating since the 15th century!

Princes' Islands

2011-09-08T19:23:00.000-07:00

Another beautiful day in Istanbul. Today we hopped a ferry to the largest of 5 islands just outside Istanbul in the Sea of Marmara (which is to the west, while the Black Sea is to the east, up the Bosphorous Strait).

The islands were first used to house expelled princes from the Ottoman Empire, and later wealthy Istanbullus constructed summer houses there. The crumbling Victorian-meets-the-East mansions are in various states of repair, but all have the blue glass "eye" that is ubiquitous in Turkey posted above the doorway. This symbol is believed to ward off evil and it is somewhat of a national symbol - you see it everywhere from key chains to bracelets to walls of office buildings.

One nice thing about the islands is that cars are not allowed, so the streets are remarkably traffic free. There is a steady business for the bicycle rental and horse buggy places, and after see the hundred meter long line for the horse buggies, we opted for some rusty, creaking bikes to carry through the leafy hills and to a rocky beach where we would relax a little. Helena, so deprived of air in Delhi, overdid it and got a sunburn. The water was a bit chilly and the beach a bit rocky for me to be enticed in - I am waiting for our time on the Mediterranean next week.

Mosques and Markets

2011-09-07T11:05:00.000-07:00

Today Helena and I set off to see a few sights, including the "Blue" Mosque - so named because it is beautifully decorated with blue-patterned tiles all over the interior. Eighty percent of the Turkish population is Muslim but is very low-key outside of the mosques which dot the city. We see a range of women's coverings from just head scarf (with western clothes) to the full burkha, but probably 50% of Turkish women just dress in regular European fashion. Helena and I tend to blend in with our dark hair and light eyes, and this is a relief after being standouts in Sri Lanka (and for Helena, her last 6 months in India).

In addition to the Blue Mosque, we took in the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art, and a small portion of the famous grand bazaar, walking for nearly 7 hours in total. It was a relief to be back at flat, where we could have a cup of tea. Having eaten a late lunch at a grill restaurant in the bazaar, Helena just whipped up a lovely salad of our finds from the vegetable market, topped with exquisite Turkish extra virgin olive oil.

The Sultan's Table

2011-09-07T11:00:00.000-07:00

Our day starts with a trip to the bakery for the still warm, crusty on-the-outside, white and fluffy on-the-inside Turkish bread, and maybe some lighter-than-air croissants. We prepare a typical Turkish breakfast with the bread: sliced cucumbers and tomatoes, wrinkly and salty black olives (which are incredibly cheap here), tangy feta (which tastes 100x better than any I have had in the U.S.), and repeated drizzles of the super olivey EVOO. We might also have a little butter and honey with our bread or some fruit and yogurt to top it off.

The options for a Turkish lunch are many, and on Monday we ducked into a busy Circassian restaurant and were pleasantly surprised with a range of mezes (starters) and lamb dumplings/raviolis in a yogurt and chili sauce. They vary by region, but the mezes range from a bowl of big yellow beans to fresh grilled mackerel fillets, to eggplant puree (like the Greek baba ganoush), to chopped spinach salad, or my favorite: a spread made of grilled red peppers, toasted walnuts and pomegranate syrup.

The Turkish are big meat eaters and the national fast food dish is probably the kebap, which city dwellers in the U.S. know so well for late night gnoshing. There are also kofte restaurants which specialize in meatballs, borek shops which carry all kinds of savory pastry wrapped, delicately spiced meats, cheeses and vegetables, shops specializing in baklava (which is a whole different creation over here), pide restaurants (Turkish version of pizza), and of course, fish restaurants as Istanbul is a seaside city. We have also been enjoying fresh pomegranate juice from the tiny juice shops - 5 whole pomegranates in a small glass. Hello anti-oxidants!

I will try to take more photos of our food. We are just so excited, we lay into it right away and ruin the aesthetic!

Merhaba

2011-09-05T23:46:00.000-07:00

My last post was all the way back in April, but, yes, I have traveled since then. See http://twosistersonthesubcontinent.blogspot.com/ for my adventures in Sri Lanka with my sister.

For our next adventure we are in Turkey, first stop Istanbul. We had visited Turkey together just over 11 years ago but didn't come to Istanbul, so this is quite exciting for me. Our last trip was along the southwest coast, first by boat and then by car (the screaming white cola can), a hot August jaunt along the Med.

This time we arrived to mid-70's, sunny and dry, lovely Istanbul. Helena is reveling in the cleanliness and balmy weather of this fine city after 6 months in India, and the sweltering sticky filth of Delhi. We have rented a flat in the Beyoglu district, which sees fewer tourists than the old town area of Sultanhamet, and it's refreshingly quiet. The flat is sunny and breezy with immaculate hardwood floors, 2 bedrooms and a full kitchen, and we are in heaven (Helena had sussed out this area on her last trip to Istanbul in 2009).

Yesterday we did some organizational stuff, getting a local SIM card, some groceries, etc., but also walked a lot looking at a few of the sights (and getting a taste of the legendary bazaar) before attending the art opening of Helena's old friend and mentor from Vienna, Zekeriya Saribatur (we had timed our arrival to make the opening). Zekeriya is an internationally acclaimed Turkish artist who was tutor to Helena while she was at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna and is now an Assistant Professor there. The exhibition is an on-going collaborative group effort by 3 artists of diverse nationalities working mainly in oils, print and mixed media. We both enjoyed the works and the space the exhibition in is amazing, a centuries-old huge stone building of adjoined cuppolas, the kind you get only in Turkey.

Today it is more sight seeing - for me, as Helena has seen everything on her prior trips to Istanbul. Although Helena is looking for inspiration for her textile designs and there is no doubt she will find it here.

Photo: We have our first glass of Turkish tea and our first cheese borek. Yay! Food report to come.

Stockholm Clean, Bright and.... Warm??

2011-04-17T11:25:00.000-07:00

What a difference a period of three weeks makes at the start of spring! Arriving in Stockholm today, it was 60F – a 30 degree increase from when I arrived at the start of this trip! I packed away the down coat, hat and gloves for my last day, and took to the streets of Stockholm, exploring one of the outer island/suburbs that sees few tourists. I was in search of a bakery/café owned by the confectioner who supplies the Nobel banquets. I found it and was not disappointed (remember how in my first blog entry for this trip I said I might live on desserts alone? Well, that’s almost the case!). Along the way I could see that everyone was out in the sunshine – some in shorts and t-shirts, and the neighborhoods reminded me a bit of San Francisco: young, urban, hip.

Stockholm is such a change from Riga (which is only a one hour flight across the Baltic Sea). During the Soviet occupation, large numbers of Russians emigrated to Latvia, changing the ethic makeup dramatically. Today, Riga is about 60% Latvian and 40% Russian. To me, it felt very eastern – more so than Estonia, which shares a much longer border with Russia.

On my last night in Riga, I went to the National Opera House to see a ballet. I had read Mikhail Baryshnikov and Alexander Godunov both started their careers with the Latvian National Ballet, and it inspired me to see a performance. I had hoped to see an opera too, as the National Opera is the pride of Latvia, but unfortunately my timing didn’t work out. For such a small country, Latvia seems to have an extensive arts culture, and getting to witness a part of it in the gilded glory of the 100 year old National Opera House was a treat. http://www.opera.lv/

Jumble

2011-04-15T10:22:00.000-07:00

The recent (last 100 years) history of the Baltic States (Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania) is largely the same: Long awaited independence and national pride is crushed by Soviet invasion, followed by Nazi oppression, and then handed back to the Soviets where they remained behind the Iron Curtain for over 45 years.

Riga also has a Museum of Occupation, housed in one of the few remaining Soviet structures (Latvians tore down the rest) – a kind of fitting house for the horrors chronicled inside. Needless to say, I am becoming extremely familiar with history of this region (including Finland). Learning history first-hand (so to speak) is one of my goals in traveling, and hitting almost the whole region this time has made that a lot easier.

Riga itself is an interesting jumble of medieval, modern, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and numerous other kinds of architecture. The old town was not preserved as well as in Tallinn, and here you have modern shopping malls next to 16th century buildings. The Art Nouveau district is the most celebrated, and I took heaps of photos of the various nymphs, ghouls and dragons adorning them.

I am happy to report that the weather is warming even more, and today is the first day I didn’t have to wear hat and scarf (and gloves for the second half of the day). Tomorrow, my last day, is supposed to get into the 50’s!

I’m not sure if anyone is reading this, but I’ll do a couple more installments before I draw this episode to a close. I hope you have enjoyed coming along with me!

Left: Soviet-era bunker houses Museum of Occupation in Riga

History

2011-04-13T11:26:00.001-07:00

My first full day in Tallinn, and the sun disappeared, leaving grey, freezing weather in its wake. I just couldn’t get any decent photos, sorry.

After a self-guided audio tour walking around the Old Town, I took in both the Tallinn City Museum and the Museum of Occupation, which was devoted to the history of Soviet and Nazi occupation from 1939 to 1991. The City Museum covered some of the same period, particularly Stalin’s reign. The combined information detailed the sad story of a young, free Estonia being swallowed, then oppressed, by a much mightier country. When I finally read about the “Singing Revolution” that bloodlessly ended the Soviet occupation, it brought tears to my eyes.
Tomorrow I have half a day in Tallin before taking a bus to Riga, Latvia, my last stop before flying back to Stockholm to catch my flight home.

Beautiful Tallinn, Estonia

2011-04-12T10:24:00.000-07:00

As most of you reading this blog know (or just look at the archive of posts), I’ve been quite a few places by now. But it’s been awhile since a place made me go “Wow!”

Welcome to Old Town, Tallinn, Estonia! Now THIS is a medieval town, where most of the buildings date from the 14th and 15th centuries, on a site that has been inhabited since at least the 11th century. Many of the buildings have been re-worked over the centuries, with some of the original architectural details being incorporated into 17th and 18th century facades, but the overall look and feel as you stroll the cobbled streets is one of stepping back 600 years. The original city walls are surprisingly intact, adding to sense of preservation in this beautiful little town within a city.

Estonians share common ancestry with the Finns, and their languages belong to the same group. Unfortunately, Estonians historically suffered a similar fate as the Finns – being always occupied or governed by another country (the Swedes, then the Russians). As you are probably aware, Estonia was swept into the Soviet Union at the end of World War II, reportedly against the wishes of the Estonian people, who longed for independence. The 50 or so years as part of the USSR were not kind to Estonia (to say the least), and this medieval gem suffered from disuse and neglect.

Independence and forward thinking government brought Estonia back to the world in 1991, and they are now part of the EU and NATO. However, tensions with Russia remain.

I arrived late in the day today with less than ideal light for photos. More tomorrow!

Turku and Rauma

2011-04-11T11:02:00.000-07:00

I’ve spent the last couple days exploring the southwest corner of Finland, specifically the towns of Turku and Rauma. Turku was the capitol of Finland until 1812, when the Russian tsar moved it to Helsinki. Some of old Turku remains, including a rambling castle begun in the 14th century, which is still standing due to may restorations and additions. The rest of the town is a mish mash of 18th and 19th century and modern buildings, lots of university students, and, it seems, all of the riff raff of Finland. Notwithstanding this lack of focus, the city dishes up great food, and I continue to be impressed with the innovation. Who would have thought a cepes (mushroom) brulee would work? Or that I would enjoy deep fried beef tongue with my celery root soup? My least enjoyable meal was at the Viking themed, over-the-top kitsch restaurant that was much recommended in my guide book and the tourist office.

On the second day, despite 32F weather and freezing rain, I took a bus 90 km to the north to visit Rauma, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized as a unique example of medieval architecture. Such a billing made me think of dark wood and stone huts. But the town looks remarkably like Porvoo, a blend of architecture from the 18th and 19th centuries. (I always thought of “medieval” as being a bit before that…) It was charming nonetheless, and I had a tranquil (dry) walk along the cobbled streets, with stops only for coffee and Rauma biscuits (which taste just like gingersnaps).

Tomorrow I take the train back to Helsinki, then right onto a ferry to Tallinn, Estonia – a short 2 hour hop across the Gulf of Finland.

Joo Joo Joo

2011-04-09T07:24:00.000-07:00

It sounds like yo! yo! yo!, and means yes yes yes. It’s the one Finnish word I recognize, maybe because it is the same in Saami (the languages are closely related), and I heard Pere-Nils use it many times.

Today, amazingly, the sun came out. It came OUT! In less than 24 hours the city was transformed from grey, huddled masses hurrying to and fro from Stockmann’s (reportedly Europe’s largest department store), to sun worshippers basking in the 45 F sunshine (I noted at as of 4:30 pm today it was warmer in Helsinki than in San Diego – crazy!). Every sunny park bench and step was taken by stunned looking city dwellers soaking it up. Even the cafes put out chairs, and it seems that Helsinki is catching up with spring. Finally.

I haven’t visited Stockmann’s, despite being told that I should by various sources. I feel like it’s telling a foreign visitor to visit the Mall of America in Minneapolis – just to go because it’s the biggest (plus, they are having "crazy days" right now, which I take to mean a massive sale, and the place is packed). I did visit the massive Stockmann’s book store to supplement my guide books since I have added Latvia to my itinerary, and was impressed with the Alvar Aalto 1969 building, custom designed as a bookstore. It maximizes natural light with an inverted atrium extending up 3 floors, reflecting light off the white Carrara marble interior.

In fact, it’s the little shops in the Helsinki Design District that are the most interesting, as they showcase the superb Finnish design that was unknown to me before (although my sister the designer is a long-time fan).

This is Spring?

2011-04-08T10:51:00.000-07:00

With the pots of daffodils lining shop fronts and the display cases full of Easter eggs and bunnies, you would think that spring was in the air. But a trip outside of the city showed that here in the north, “spring” still means several feet of snow on the ground, and ice-fishing.

Helsinki, with 500,000 residents, is the second most northern capitol in the world (after Reykjavik). It is much farther north and east than Stockholm, which I didn’t appreciate until I found myself locked in cold and fog for 3 days in a row. Today, however, I decided to take a side trip to the historic town of Porvoo, about an hour to the east. It was there that Tsar Alexander I in 1809 proclaimed Finland to be a Russian Grand Duchy, having just won it from Sweden (which had occupied Finland for 650 years). It was only after that declaration that the capitol of Finland was moved from Turku (where I am headed next) to Helsinki.
The town of Porvoo, from what I could see underneath the snow, is charming, with a tranquil riverside setting. It is another place that bears visiting in the summer, as its charms were mostly obscured.

Another day of great food! Not to mention the hand made chocolate from the tiny shop opposite the 15th century cathedral in old town Porvoo.

The highlight today was seeing my sister on live video via Skype for the first time she arrived in India. She is doing really well!

Above: The largest Russian Orthodox church in Western Europe/Scandinavia makes an appearance out of the fog.

To Market

2011-04-07T05:52:00.000-07:00

I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the 120 year old market hall on the waterfront is still very much in use, with the original carved mahogany stalls in good shape, and most of the stalls open for lunch. I can only imagine how it is in the summer when the expansive concrete in front is lined with tables and stalls, as I saw in photos. It has become clear that I am missing the best of Helsinki by not being here in summer (I didn’t have that feeling in Stockholm). From the market to the esplanade to the 18th century island fortress of Soumenlinna, winter is an effective shut down. This hasn’t been helped by cold fog and rain for the last two days.

I have also been pleasantly surprised at how friendly and helpful the Finnish have been so far. From what I heard in Sweden I was expecting a cool reception (a la Bolivia), but have had quite the opposite experience. And I have enjoyed the food much more, especially the savory pastries (piirakka) and seafood options; food seems to be a bit more flavorful here.

Unfortunately, it seems like a lot more people smoke here than in Sweden. But not inside, which is a life/lung saver!

Above: Soumenlinna Fortress, constructed in 1748, shut down for the winter.

Helsinki Grey and Slushy

2011-04-06T10:32:00.000-07:00

After on overnight ferry from Stockholm to Helsinki, I jumped on a city tour – not a bad idea in the freezing drizzle. After that I set out walking to see the sights but quickly tired as it had been a hard night on the ferry and I hadn’t slept much.

Unbeknownst to me when I booked the ferry, it is a 2800 passenger cruise ship, with gambling, nightclubs, and crowds of Swedish and Finnish revelers. Being during the week, the crowds were less, but in my basement cabin (below the car deck), I could hear my neighbors partying long into the wee hours. Add that sound of the hull crashing against ice frequently, and it was a fitful night!

Arriving in Helsinki, it was like going back a month as far as weather is concerned, The many harbors are choked with ice, and there is snow on the ground everywhere. It is grey and snow is expected tomorrow.

On my first day in Finland I learned some interesting facts about the Finnish: there are 2 million saunas in Finland – approximately 1 for every 2 ½ people and Finnish drink more coffee per capita than any other country.

This is clear: the country straddles both Scandinavia and the east, combining elements of both in a fascinating jumble.

Return to Stockholm

2011-04-05T08:49:00.001-07:00

The flight from Kiruna to Stockholm is only 1 ½ hours – about the same from San Diego to San Francisco, and I think the length of Sweden may be about the same as California. Compared to its neighbors (Norway and Finland), so many Swedish brands have been a big hit in the US, including IKEA, Volvo, Saab, and H&M. Swedish fish, Swedish meatballs, Swedish massage – I tried all of these while in Sweden. Unfortunately, I learned that the planned ABBA museum never materialized, so I didn’t get to sample that famous Swedish export.

Arriving back in Stockholm was coming back to spring that sprung while we were in the north. Sidewalk cafes have appeared, and pots of daffodils are everywhere. The ice on the lake is breaking up and rapidly disappearing. It’s brisk but comfortable walking weather and I went all over town looking for good food, coffee and chocolate.

I also visited 3 more of the many museums in the city: the Vasa Museum, the Nordic Museum and the Museum of Modern Art. I can highly recommend the first two. The Vasa Museum houses a nearly intact wooden ship that sunk in Stockholm harbor in 1628, together with around 12,000 objects found with it. The wood-boring worms that usually destroy wood don’t like the low salt content of the Baltic and as a result the ship was incredibly preserved in the clay bottom of the harbor. A massive effort from 1957-1961 raised the ship and now it sits in a custom built museum dedicated to the history of the ship and the period of its construction.

The size of the Vasa is simply stunning: 62 meters long and several stories high. It sunk just setting sail and it is now believed that the ships design of being too tall and narrow caused it to capsize.

Almost next door to the Vasa Museum is the Nordic Museum in a grandiose purpose-built building that I first mistook for a cathedral. It houses interesting exhibits on the history of Scandinavian design, 300 years of clothing (quite different that American clothing), Scandinavian traditions, and had a temporary exhibit on the history of “Men in Bathing Suits”, which was just hilarious, although presented in a completely serious manner.

Last night in Stockholm, and I am on an overnight ferry bound for Helsinki.

Swedish Meatballs

2011-04-04T12:40:00.000-07:00

A note about the food. When we first arrived in the north, I did my best to keep up with the meat consumption, trying to do as the Saami do, but my stomach rebelled after a couple days of moose and reindeer for breakfast lunch and dinner. I scaled back and luckily there was another person on the trip not wanting to eat so much meat, so sometimes we had a vegetarian option. The fare was pretty much meat (with fish a few times) and heaps of potatoes. Sometimes we would get some frozen vegetables, but as you can imagine, it’s slim pickins in the Arctic! One of the nice perks of Arctic life is the lingonberries, which are somewhat sour but make a wonderful jam and juice. We also tried some cloudberries (frozen as they are picked in summer), a unique product of the area. Also sour, but different and wonderful as jam. Our last meal in Kiruna was, you guessed it, Swedish meatballs with gravy and potatoes. I had a few, but was glad to get back to the variety of Stockholm!

It was in Stockholm, at the Mathias Dahlgren restaurant in the Grand Hotel that I had the best meal I have had in a long long time. I had my first experience with herring, and it was the best possible in a kind of herring tartare, which was herring side by side with whitefish roe, yellow beets, capers, potatoes, sour cream, and topped with a raw egg yolk. On the advice of my server, I mixed it all up into a salty, fishy nectar and ate it with fresh crusty sourdough bread. That was followed with croquettes of forest mushrooms and salt fried green asparagus, baked Bolivian wild chocolate with toffee ice cream, and lemon verbena tea (with tiny tangerine Madelines for good measure). I could come back to Stockholm early just eat there again!

And I have righted the coffee wrongs and found mostly excellent coffee after my first day in Stockholm. This includes Jordana’s wicked brew that made my hair stand on end!

Ice Ice Baby

2011-04-04T12:13:00.000-07:00

On April 2nd we said goodbye to the dogs and checked into the world famous, original, Ice Hotel. It was much more impressive than I thought it would be, and I admit I spent little time looking online to prepare myself for the experience.

There is a heated, regular construction portion of the hotel, which stays in place all year round. This abuts the lobby, Ice Bar and sleeping rooms, constructed new each year from blocks of ice from the Torne River. The temperature inside is a steady -5C, which must feel quite warm in the dead of winter, was but was quite chilly since the outside temps were approaching +10C when we visited.

Since the operators of the Ice Hotel have been at it for nearly 20 years, they know how to prepare guests to sleep in the ice rooms, handing out warm sleeping bags, liners, and assigning warm changing and storage rooms for before and after the cold night.

Our tour had booked us into the Ice Suites – each with a different theme carved by a team of artists in the ice (there are also cheaper plain ice rooms that are all the same). http://icehotel.com/uk/ICEHOTEL/ Mine was entitled “Flow”, and I invited Jordana to share it with me, since she was without room and I didn’t want to have the experience alone (she has slept there many times as a guide and gave us expert advice on staying warm through the night).

So we had our farewell dinner, with the Dutch buying us all drinks first in the Ice Bar, then in the heated lounge (I finally had great coffee, yippee!) The surroundings invited much silliness, and it was only with a Benedryl that I settled down to make it through the cold night sleeping, literally, on a block of ice.

We were awakened by staff bearing hot lingonberry juice to warm us up, and after a hot shower and lavish breakfast buffet we were on our way back to Stockholm. Goodbye Jordana!

Note about dog sledding: the trip I did is no longer being offered, so check out http://huskytours.com/ if you are interested in doing one yourself!

Aah, Saunas!

2011-04-04T11:37:00.000-07:00

Above: Sunset in the Lapland wilderness

As I mentioned in my last post, every wilderness cabin has a wood-fired sauna. The Saami house also had one, and I reluctant tried it on day 2 as I am not a big fan of saunas and steam rooms. Much to my delight, I found that it is standard in the country to have a water cistern attached to the stove, which heats hot water for bathing. Indeed, this was the only way to bathe the entire week (I had been prepared to go without the whole week so I was pleasantly surprised). After spending a couple days in minus temperatures, I immediately understood the draw and function of the sauna (which is a Finnish invention) in northern Sweden. It provides much needed heat and moisture, and a comfortable environment for getting clean!

Going back to civilization, I saw that all the saunas are electric, with no hot water, the same as we have the U.S. It’s just not the same without the cistern of hot water and the open slats in the floor showing the snow below. Despite this, Jordana and I (we were referred to by the others as “the girls”) took one last sauna on the last night (electric), but went outside and did snow angels in a snow bank before running back to the stifling heat.

Above photo: Wilderness cabin with sauna cabin in background.

Four Days of Dogs

2011-04-04T11:09:00.000-07:00

After saying goodbye to Brit-Marie and Pere-Nils, we toured the countryside for almost four full days with our dog teams, crossing frozen rivers and lakes and staying at “wilderness cabins”, which are huts with wood-burning stoves but no running water or electricity. They were quite cozy, and all came with a separate sauna, warmed by another wood-burning stove. Another stove would warm the changing room, and yet another would warm water for the dogs’ food.

Lubos, our Slovakian guide and dog master, handled everything and even cooked for us too, with the help of our other guide, Jordana. I helped feed and clean up afte our 28 dogs morning and night and was impressed with the food quality (raw) and rations.

It was interesting to see the life of working husky, which can be summed up by 3 words: eat, sleep, run. In northern Sweden they use Alaskan huskies since they are hardier and run faster than other breeds. Mine were the fastest 4 dog team - 3 big males and one female: Adam, Herman, Tiger (who ran the Iditarod), and Tina. They all had such distinct personalities, and they all looked very different too. What I learned is that Alaskan huskies are not really a “breed” but a real mix, and they can vary greatly in appearance – just look at the various dogs in the photos.

The procedure was to put the harnesses on the dogs, then clip them to the pull lines of the sled. The sled has to be anchored in the snow, or else the dogs will just take off! They only have only 2 settings when harnessed: stop and go. To stop them or slow them down you have to use a brake on the sled. They love to run, needless to say, and just getting the harnesses out causes them to start whining and howling in anticipation. They’ll start the noise again if you stop for too long on the trail. They only rest after a good run, and it’s satisfying to see them conked out in their beds of straw or doghouses at the end of the day (one of the big cabins had about 50 dog houses for dog teams).

The dogs thrive in really cold weather. When it starts to get over 0C, they get too hot and slow down greatly. The whole concept of them sleeping out in the snow took some getting used to for me, but everyone assured me that they are happy out there, and overheat quickly, even in wooden doghouses. The dogs do have to adjust somewhat to a so-called life on the run: they poop and pee while running, and scoop up bites of snow for drinks of water.

In the 4 days I became quite fond of my team, especially the goofball Herman, who loved to be petted and give kisses. I will miss them. Photo: Herman tries to clean my face.

Above: Adam and Tina, my lead dogs.

Right: Tiger enjoys the dog house.

To see a video of the dogs in action, click here.

Reindeer Games

2011-04-03T11:36:00.000-07:00

The plan for the second night was to spend the night in the laavu (tee-pee) outside the house, as this was the traditional type of dwelling for the Saami before they settled down in modern wood houses (see photo below with snow-mobile and laavu in background). They used to take reindeer sleds out to a laavu in the wilderness for the night, but have moved it back to the house to provide visitors with an escape route if they get too cold. We all bunked in, except one of the Dutch gentlemen, who steadfastly insisted that -25C was too cold for sleeping outside. The other 3 Dutch were game, which was impressive given that they are all over 65! Pere-Nils built a huge fire in the middle, which smoked terribly, but it did little to abate the cold. Freezing in a borrowed light-weight sleeping bag, I only last a couple hours (at the most) before I high-tailed it inside. Jordana was right behind me, a victim of the smoke, which was billowing in her direction all night. The others lasted longer, but we were all inside by morning.

Not a great night’s sleep, but we were all ready to go reindeer sledding in the morning. After a hearty breakfast and plenty of coffee, we helped Pere-Nils harness 3 of the reindeer he had brought down from the herd that was off grazing elsewhere. They don’t use the reindeer so much for pulling sleds anymore, and let’s just say that the reindeer aren’t too crazy about doing it. Each of the Dutch couples had a reindeer and sled, and I rode with Pere-Nils behind the wildest one. The method for going, if you can get the sled attached to the harness, is to stand holding the head, then let go and jump on as the reindeer takes off full speed and the sled races by. Full of opportunities for injury, to say the least!

Once going the reindeer calms down and the ride is peaceful. I had to take video as I was amused at their light-footed gait that keeps their wide-spread hooves from sinking in the snow. See it on Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sx8sSSKCdvc

Each reindeer typically carried about 120 kilos, and the Saami would use about 15 to move a family and their belongings from place to place. The front one would be led by a Saami on skis, since there is no steering mechanism. This was shown when the Dutch-driven reindeer took off in a different direction on the way back. Pere-Nils and I chased them down on a snowmobile and he led them back while I drove a snowmobile for the first time! All in all a nice day, where I learned a lot about reindeer and the Saami way of life.

Introduction to Lapland

2011-04-03T11:10:00.000-07:00

Let me catch up with last week, and my time in Lapland. On Sunday morning, March 27, we took a one and half hour flight north to Kiruna, which is north of the Arctic circle. Jordana, our guide, collected us, gave us our snowsuits, hats, gloves and boots and drove us further north to the Saami village of Ovre Soppero (only 50 km from the Finnish border). The Saami people have lived in the north of what is now Norway, Sweden and Finland for thousands of years as nomadic reindeer herders. Now they have wooden houses and some of the modern conveniences, but they still rely on reindeer to provide a way of life.

Brit-Marie and Pere-Nils, our Saami hosts, cooked for us and instructed us on the Saami way of life. A hard life it was, and is…. but more on that later. Amazingly, the Northern Lights made an appearance the first night! Unfortunately, I didn’t get any photos, as I watched them from the window of the sleeping loft in the top of the house. And even though I checked every night after that, they never again appeared, so I guess we were lucky for our one sighting.

The next day we took a snowmobile and sleds to the river to go icefishing and have lunch (reindeer sausage and flatbread). The temperature was a balmy -10 C. Seriously, it felt warm after a night of -25C! Pere-Nils made a fire on the snowy river bank, and brewed strong Saami-style coffee – the most common drink in Lapland.

People lost interest in ice-fishing and only one small fish was caught (and thrown back), but we enjoyed seeing the countryside and getting a taste of the weather in preparation for the coming days.

Above: Me and Jordana relax on reindeer skins by the fire

Stockholm Clean and Bright

2011-03-26T07:05:00.000-07:00

Needless to say, Stockholm is very cold. Around 35 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. I came prepared, however, and am making the most of the brilliant sunshine that has blessed my first full day in Sweden. Despite being definitely off-season, there are plenty of European tourists in the city, clogging the streets of the old town (Gamla Stan) and filling the blessedly smoke-free cafes. The most interesting sight so far has been a runner dressed in a bright red body suit that completely covered his head, with only eye holes cut-out!

Though Stockholm feels very European, so far I have found the coffee (my true love) to be quite awful (which is disappointing considering a cappuccino costs $5 or more). On the other hand, the desserts and pastries are to die for. Given that Swedish cuisine is mostly meat and potatoes, I could end up surviving on just desserts alone.

I was looking for things uniquely Swedish, so I went straight for the Nobel Museum. As you can guess, it is all about the Nobel Prizes, something about which I previously knew little. In a nutshell, they were established by the will and testament of Alfred Nobel, a Swedish engineer and chemist who most notably invented dynamite, and were first awarded in 1901.

My guidebook also mentioned a planned ABBA Museum, but I have yet to find it – I thought that when in Sweden, one should pay homage to its most successful export! Instead I visited the Medieval Museum of Stockholm which is housed in some excavated medieval ruins under the city. It contains incredible detail about medieval life, which just made me appreciate our modern life so much more!

Tonight I meet up with my group and guide and tomorrow I fly to Kiruna in the north. I will not post again until I get back on Sunday April 3rd since I am not taking my computer (there isn’t internet access anyway).

In Transit - Scandinavia here I come!

2011-03-25T06:12:00.000-07:00

It's not an easy task to get from Encinitas to Stockholm. Of all of the options, I chose car to LAX, direct flight from LAX to London Heathrow, and connection to Stockholm on British Airways. The non-stop to London was fast: only 10 hours - about the same time to get to the Cook Islands! Barely time for one movie before falling asleep.

For those of you who don't know, my itinerary is one day in Stockholm before joining a small group from Mt. Travel Sobek to fly to Kiruna in northern Sweden (above the Arctic Circle), where I will spend 9 days dog sledding, reindeer sledding, staying at the Ice Hotel, and (hopefully) seeing the Northern Lights. I won't have internet access during that time, so reports and photos when I get back to Stockholm on April 3.

After my Arctic adventure, I will spend a few days in Stockholm, then move on to Finland and Estonia before heading home. At 3 1/2 weeks, it is the longest I have been away since my 6 weeks of adventures in Bolivia in Ecuador at the end of 2009.

So stay tuned!

Elizabeth

Farewell Cook Islands!

2010-11-30T09:07:00.000-08:00

Here are a few photos from our time in the Cook Islands, which was capped off by a great dinner out at the Tamarind House. That's me on the raft...
Fresh tuna sashimi!

Our rented bungalow.

Kia Orana

2010-11-27T17:57:00.000-08:00

Kia Orana is the standard greeting here in the Cook Islands, and it means literally "May you live long!" My wish may be to just to live long on this island. Helena and I were both completely taken with Rarotonga, its relaxed pace and its friendly, outgoing people. All Cook Islanders can be traced back to 6 tribal chiefs who came here around 400 AD, and a sense of family and community pervades to this day. In contrast with so many other places I have traveled, one doesn't see see neglected people or animals, or families living in abject poverty. It seems that families take care of each other (of course, the contributions of the New Zealand government helps with things too).

On Thursday, I took a day trip to another island in the Cooks called Aitutaki, and sampled the fine snorkeling over there. It was a 40 minute prop plane ride, and an easy day trip, although the island is worth spending more time. Next time....

Out snorkeling I saw heaps of giant clams and all kinds of other tropical fish is crystal clear water about white sand punctuated by large coral towers. Lunch was prepared by a local couple beachside for our group, with many local dishes (such as banana and papaya salad with curry dressing) to accompany the grilled parrotfish.

Other than my daytrip to Aitutaki, Helena and I spent our days snorkeling and swimming, exploring the island (even visiting the Prison Craftshop!), and watching the Vaka Eiva (outrigger competition). We also went on a hunt for the best coconut oil to bring home. It seemed to be something we just couldn't get enough of!

Helena went home last night, and I head home to tonight, with much sadness. Our 2 weeks in paradise were over so quickly!

I will post more photos when I get home to my computer, so stay tuned!

Boxfish and Snake-Eels

2010-11-22T20:49:00.000-08:00

Today we set off for Muri, on the opposite side of the island, to experience a difference in location for snorkeling (we had just been exploring the reef outside our door so far). While it was sunny and brilliant at our place, we found first clouds, then pouring rain on the other side. After being held hostage in a shop, we thought it was starting to clear and made a run for it on the scooter, only to be caught in a full on downpour for 20 kms. We were soaked through and through. Poor Helena was in front, taking the brunt of the wet, steering like a champion on the slippery 2 lane road. Back on the west side, the rain soon gave way and we again hit the local reef with our reef fish identification card to spot more exotic fish. In addition to the standard Bullethead Parrotfish, Threadfin Butterflyfish, Convict Surgeonfish and Picasso Triggerfish, today Helena and I saw a Spotted Snake-Eel! It's a freaky 100cm eel that moves across the ocean floor like a snake. We also saw a Snowflake Moray Eel - it snuck up on me while Helena tried to get my attention and I nearly jumped out of the water when I saw it (even though they don't bite, they are just ugly!) We've also seen Yellow Boxfish, so called because they are actually square.

I have not yet seen one person surfing here. The waves break on shallow reef, and it seems so treacherous, I can't bring myself to try it without someone showing me how. I don't mind - I like exploring the other side of the reef!

Beachcombers

2010-11-22T20:45:00.000-08:00

It's hard to believe that we have been in Rarotonga a week already! Our days have been filled with beachcombing, shopping for food, snorkeling, eating and exploring the island. We rented a scooter, and have been blasting around the 32 kms, looking at wind and swells, flowers and beaches. Having grown up combing the beaches of Southern California for shells and other interesting sea remnants, Helena and I have enjoyed just wandering the beach, seeing what we find on a South Sea island. The photo shows a few of our finds. Yesterday, we found that with umbrellas we could even enjoy wandering the beaches in the rain (which has plagued us many days so far).

It has been handy having our own cottage with full kitchen. Super fresh fish is super cheap and we have been gorging ourselves on tuna sashimi, ika tata (raw fish and coconut milk salad - like ceviche), and fish curry. Needless to say, we have also been downing as much papaya (paw paw), mango and pineapple as we can eat. I'm lucky that Helena is an inventive and passionate cook!

On Saturday, the Vaka Eiva came to Rarotonga. It is one of the largest outrigger canoe events in the world, attracting competitors from all of the Pacific Islands (including Hawaii), Australia, and New Zealand. While the main action is in town, about 8 kms away, we have enjoyed the ceremonies, special markets and events that have come along with it. We've seen a couple traditional dance performances, which are fantastic; all hips by the women and knees by the men dancing to hollow log drums. The Cook Islanders are very proud of their cultural heritage and they seem to work hard to keep it alive.

Fresh Fish and Volcanoes

2010-11-17T20:57:00.001-08:00

Rarotonga is only 20 miles in circumference, smaller than Oahu. Today Helena and I hiked across it, on the only real hiking trail on the island. Up through ferns and hibiscus, Polynesian chestnut and orchids, we climbed to the base of the landmark spire of the Needle, before heading down the volcanic spine to the south coast.

In three days there hasn't been much water time. Yesterday was stormy and cool, and today was windy and churned, with 15-20 foot swells breaking over the reef, and fouling the stillness of the lagoon. I haven't seen anyone trying to surf - the swell appears surfable, but by surfers much more skilled than I! My sister complains of the loudness of the surf crashing on the reef, but somehow it doesn't bother me. She is happy I am too chicken to sample the surf; she says she doesn't fancy scraping me off the reef.

We have been enjoying incredibly fresh albacore tuna, wahoo and swordfish, and Helena has been working her magic in the kitchen of our bungalow, turning out a wonderful Burmese fish curry, coconut lime fish salad, pan seared fresh albacore steaks with soba noodles…. No need to try the restaurants! There are also papaya, mangoes and bananas everywhere. Heaven!

Interestingly, given the fair distance, a lot of the fresh food comes from New Zealand, including the milk and fresh baked bread, not to mention tinned goods, ice cream and cheese. Helena feels right at home!

The South Pacific

2010-11-16T11:41:00.000-08:00

I arrived on Monday morning in Rarotonga, the largest of the Cook Islands, to blazing hot sun and humid breezes: exactly what I expected. My sister, having flown in the day before, was there to meet me.

It was a bumpy flight on the way down: almost 10 hours from LAX, 1/2 with the seat belt sign illuminated. Nonetheless, I managed to get some sleep and arrived on the island fairly fresh. For those of you who don't know where the Cook Islands are, they are a group of 15 islands in the Southern Hemisphere 3,000 miles due south of Hawaii (same time zone as Hawaii). Since they are in the south, it was only about 4 hours for my sister to come from Auckland, and there seems to be a large contingent of Kiwis here due to the proximity.

My sister had organized a beach cottage for our 13 day stay here, and it is perfect! We are right on the sand, with 100 meters of protected coral reef right in front, giving us immediate access to snorkeling. At the edge of the reef there is one of the few surf breaks on the island - a heaving, thumping, messy left. The Kiwi proprietor of the cottage said that I might try it if I was feeling "courageous", which I interpret to mean "insane" in Kiwi-speak.

While the first day was hot and sunny, our second broke with howling winds, horizontal rain and cloudy skies. Only then did my sister mention that yes, this is cyclone season. So for mow we are staying in, honing our Scrabble skills, and hoping the weather breaks soon!

Summer Reading

2010-06-26T06:33:00.000-07:00

Traveling by myself always allows me to read a lot, and I can recommend the following four books I finished on this trip:

"Redemption: The Myth of Pet Overpopulation and the No Kill Revolution" by Nathan Winograd (the title is self-explanatory!);

"The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo" by Steig Larsson - pulp fiction page-turner that was a good antidote to the previous powerful read ( a couple people on my Patagonia trip were reading it);

"The Big Short: Inside the Doomsday Machine" by Michael Lewis - the author who brought us "Liar's Poker" about 80's Wall Street, does a GREAT job of explaining what went wrong on Wall Street this time, and what led to the collapse;

"Northanger Abbey" by Jane Austen - not her best work, in my opinion.... I am enjoying "Mansfield Park" much more. Let's hope I find the time to finish it now that I am home.

I highly recommend getting an Amazon Kindle or another electronic book reader if you travel a lot. On Amazon, you can download most of the literary classics for free or less than $1, and new hardcover books are usually less than $10. Most importantly, you can carry a who library with you in a little package!

Say Goodbye

2010-06-23T11:52:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was a glorious day in the Julian Alps. I joined an organized tour that took me and 7 others for a day around the alpine area of Slovenia, close to the Italian border, and over the highest mountain pass in the country. Luckily, the rain had stopped and the sun peaked through for our short hikes and explorations, including a hair-raising climb to the source of the Soca River (the main river in Slovenia).

At the end, we were presented with the option of jumping 40 feet off a bridge into the Soca River. I wasn’t going to jump, but one of the 22 year old American girls said to another “How many times in your life will you be standing on a bridge in Slovenia with the opportunity to jump?” and I thought to myself, well! I had better do it (despite my intense fear of heights). Nothing could prepare me for the shock of the cold water (41F) upon the somewhat brutal landing. A good portion went up my nose – I guess that’s why people were holding their noses!

I can’t say enough good things about Slovenia! GREEN, modern, multi-lingual (in school they learn Slovene, English, German and Serbo-Croatian!), friendly, sport-loving, historic..... And everyone seems to have a vegetable garden!
I head home tomorrow, feeling very happy to have had a chance to experience Slovenia.

A Fairy Tale Place

2010-06-21T09:32:00.000-07:00

After a rainy afternoon in Ljubjlana (pronounced “Lubiana”), where I caught a Serbian brass band in the main square reminiscent of Gogo Bordello, I took the bus 1 ½ hours north to the little town of Bled.

Bled is the No. 1 tourist destination of Slovenia, but I have found it to be quiet and empty – it is still early in the season and quite cool (with rain off and on), but I can imagine the hordes that descend in the very warm months of July and August.

I am housed in one of the many villas from the 19th century that have been converted to hotels; mine has only 6 rooms. It is quite comfortable and big change from my hotels thus far. My back thanks me.

This afternoon was a 6 km walk around the lake, and climb to the castle on the hill, which contains another excellent museum detailing the history of Bled and the castle. The earliest artifacts of the area date to 3,500 – 3,800 BC, and the castle to 1011 AD. Wow. I guess all of this Old World history has so impressed me after the last year traipsing around the New World.

More Rain and No Photos

2010-06-20T09:16:00.000-07:00

The photos from yesterday show sun, but it was brief - a few hours before the black clouds rolled in again. Today, from coast to mountains, it has been nonstop rain. And cold! Until a couple days ago, I had been kicking myself for packing jeans and a sweater on this trip, and even long sleeves - thinking my bag could have been much lighter, but I am glad I did. My rain jacket, sturdy umbrella and a rain cover for my bag have also come in handy!

Since all I have with me is my Nikon SLR camera, I didn't bother trying to take photos in the rain. Hopefully tomorrow will be clear, and I can show what Ljubljana looks like, because it is quite lovely, even in the rain. (I included a photo of the resident cat at my B&B in Piran just for flavor).

The bus ride here was not long (a little over 100 km), but it took us through lush green valleys, and over a pass that advertised skiing in the winter. Ljubljana is in a little valley, below a medieval castle on a hill, and even though it is the capitol of Slovenia, it is home to only 236,000 people.

The city has a rich history, dating from at least the 7th century BC. There is a myth that Jason and the Argonauts may have originally founded the city, which would make it much older. In 15 AD the Romans founded the city of Emona on the site, and occupation has been well documented ever since.

I had time for one museum, so I tried the City Museum of Ljubljana, housed in a 15th century palace and it turned out to be one of the best museums I have ever visited. The displays covered early periods, but also the rule of the Hapsburgs of Austria, the city’s brief role as the capitol of Napoleon’s Illyrian provinces, all the way through the creation of Yugoslavia and Slovenia’s declaration of independence.

Over time, this city and Slovenia generally has often been at a crucial point in the continent, and has suffered the consequences.

Rain

2010-06-19T12:44:00.000-07:00

It started last night with a lightning storm like I have never seen before. Then thunder and rain all night. And more rain today off and on and then tonight – rivers of water flowing down the cobbled streets! I guess this is why June isn’t considered the high season here!

Today, in the middle of the rain, I took a ferry to Rivanj, Croatia, just 1 ½ hours down the coast. It was described by the Lonely Planet as the star of the Istrian coast, but I failed to see it. What I saw was a town geared towards tourists, and full of tourists, and it isn’t even high season. The stretch of coastline is beautiful. There are no sandy beaches, just rocky ledges, adapted into bathing areas but the water is clear and warm, and I can see how it is popular with the sunbathing and party crowd.

Tomorrow I head up to Ljubljana, the capitol of Slovenia, for a day and then on to Bled in the Julian Alps. I am a bit sad to leave the sea, but I will back to my own cold grey Pacific in a few days!

Piran - Pirano, Slovenia

2010-06-18T12:31:00.000-07:00

Best day yet! A short ferry ride from congested and dirty Trieste (I saw more cigarette butts in that city than any other place I have traveled) took me across to Istria, an area of the Adriatic coast that includes parts of Slovenia and Croatia. I landed in Pirano, a fairy tale town on a small, hilly peninsula. It is warm, breezy, and dry, blessed by mild ocean breezes (not the stagnant humidity of Trieste - which is only 45 km away!) I enjoyed the brilliant sun, and a swim in the Adriatic sea, with Roman ruins visible under the clear water.

Later, I watched the USA vs. Slovenia in the World Cup at one of the many cafes in the main square. Luckily some other Americans were there to cheer with me when the Americans made a comeback from 0-2 to tie.

My hotel is a small B&B in the old town – well, it’s all old town. The town was developed out to the sea on 3 sides by the 15th century, and it remains to this day, with some renovations, of course. The hotel is utterly charming, as is the whole town. Relaxed, quiet, charming. I am content

More of the Fallen Roman Empire

2010-06-18T03:34:00.000-07:00

I am getting a good feel for the transportation system in northeastern Italy! Today I took the train and the bus to an important Roman site, the oldest in this part of Italy, approximately halfway to Venice along the cuff of the boot. Aquileia was the ninth city founded by the Romans (founded around 150 B.C.), and was at one time one of the most important in the empire. Now there are just the ruins, and the medieval buildings constructed from the blocks of the ruins, but the most impressive parts are the mosaics left behind from the 4th century (see photo). There were even a few from the 1st century that had been uncovered. There is still a small town there - another site which was been occupied continuously for 2,000 years.

After that I spent a frustrating afternoon trying to find a place to do some laundry. I asked my hotel, and the tourist office, and a local dry cleaner. I got sent off in all directions, walking for miles around the city, never finding a laundromat.

No laundromats, no wi-fi. I was told the only wi-fi available was in the lobby of the Continentale Hotel – order an overpriced coffee and you can use it. I think I will wait until I move on.

Next up, Piran/Pirano in Slovenia.

Trieste or Trst

2010-06-18T03:28:00.000-07:00

Next stop, Trieste. I took the train southwest from Udine to Trieste, a large-ish port city to the southwest. It is right on the border of Slovenia, and has a much more Central European feel than other Italian cities that I have visited. Part of this is due to it being part of Austria from 1482 until 1918, serving as Austria’s one and only seaport. The Hapsburgs of Austria created the current layout in the 18th century and it retains that imperial feel. Of course there are Roman ruins scattered throughout.

My tiny 6 room hotel was located in the medieval quarter of 500 year old buildings that have been renovated over and over again. Think tiny winding alleys too narrow for cars or even carriages (see photo above). Unfortunately, I had the cubby room under the stairs, with one small window for air, but not much light. Needless to say, I didn't spend much time there.

It’s been hot. Hot. Punctuated by thunderstorms and pouring rain. I don’t mind the rain – it usually passes quickly and cools things a little.

Cividale

2010-06-18T03:20:00.000-07:00

From Udine I took the train for a ½ day side trip to Cividale, a little town that was first a Roman settlement (founded around 50 B.C.), then settled by the Lombards, and continuously occupied for around the last 2,000 years. There are some remnants of the various periods, the most striking being the castle, houses and other buildings built right on the gorge (see photo).

I had forgotten about Italian working hours….. Everything (except food and coffee places) closes at 12:30 or 1, and doesn’t reopen until 3 or 4 in the afternoon. This includes museums, shops, banks etc. At least coffee and gelato can be had. They are, in my opinion, the best value at 1 euro per shot of espresso or scoop of gelato.

Unfortunately, after less than a week of traveling, my back is wrenched. I have been going the budget route with hotels, and while it is not quite hostel heaven, the beds have been one step above cot.

Bear With Me

2010-06-17T05:55:00.000-07:00

I have heaps to write but have been thwarted by no wi-fi connection since I left Udine on Monday morning. I am now in Trieste, Italy, on the border with Slovenia (in the northeast cuff of the boot). Tomorrow I move on to Slovenia, but have waited so long to book accommodation that I am not sure yet where I will land. The goal is Piran, just down the coast before going to Ljubjana. Will post all soon!
Elizabeth

Czech-Austria-Italy in a Day

2010-06-14T07:39:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was a looooong day. I was misled into believing the bus was a good idea. It was comfortable enough (and compared to buses in Asia it was pure luxury), but it was nearly 11 hours crossing three countries from Prague to Udine, Italy. Food options were limited, and the only thing I could grab at the stop in Brno was a fried cheese sandwich. I had thought I was going to escape the Czech Republic without having sampled fried cheese - a local favorite - but no such luck. The ride was interesting nonetheless, as we also stopped in Austria at a truck stop not far from the Italian border, and one could see the complete difference between the grittiness of an Eastern European town, and the polished orderliness of an Austrian truck stop (I couldn't help but compare it to California truck stops, which are decidedly icky).

After crossing over the alps, we descended into the northeastern corner of Italy amid thunder, lightning and rain. Luckily, the weather in Udine has proved to be perfect: warm, but comfortable, with a nice breeze. I am here for 1 day, then off tomorrow to see one of the oldest settlements in the area (Cividale de Friuli), which was established by Julius Caesar in 50 B.C.

As for Udine itself, it is a pleasant old former market town that changed hands many times over the centuries, but it was the Venetian rule in the 18th century that left the most distinctive architecture (see photo of the Piazza della Liberta - supposedly one of the nicest in all of Italy). Unfortunately, the city was heavily bombed in the world wars, and buildings were reconstructed in the 1950's, with the architectural style of that time. What a contrast! Udine is all but deserted at the moment as it draws few tourists, and the vast majority of the population has already left for the coast (only 60 km away). However, I am enjoying the lack of crowds and easy pace after the crush of Prague.

Crossing the Continent

2010-06-13T00:35:00.000-07:00

After full day of Prague yesterday, I am ready to move on. My target destination was Slovenia, but getting south to the other side of Austria proved to be a challenge. There were no buses, trains or flights to that country. Detour: Italy. Oh darn. It's only my favorite destination in the whole world. So today I have a very long day on a bus to Udine, in northeastern Italy, not too far from Venice (where I went with my sister in 2006). Two nights there, then on to Trieste, Italy, which is on the border of Slovenia. I don't think I will make it to Croatia after all - just not enough time.

The oppressive heat here in Prague finally broke last night with a downpour around 11 p.m. I was tucked away in bed, so I can only imagine the throngs on the streets running for cover. I had taken in "Aida" at the Prague State Opera, and was surprised to see how many people were out at 10:30 p.m. when the opera let out. The 2 previous nights I had been in bed by 9 p.m.!

Classic

2010-06-11T11:48:00.000-07:00

I had a classic day in Prague. Started out in the morning at Prague Castle, the largest castle complex in the world, according to Lonely Planet. I won’t bore you too much with details – I believe I am the last person to get to Prague, which is kind of why I had to do it by myself! Speaking of traveling by oneself, one of the downsides is not having another person tell you when you have dropped something (castle admission ticket), or have something stuck to your clothes (both of which happened to me today).

I found the best part of Prague Castle to be the Royal Gardens, with the huge shade trees, especially the horse chestnut (which we don’t get in California). I got to the castle early, before the crowds - which surprisingly didn’t get that bad, but I think it is still early in the season. After the castle, I wandered the streets to the astronomical clock, and climbed the Old Town clock tower, ate ice cream, and looked in the windows of shops along the pedestrian shopping streets.

Given the large number of tourists in Prague, most people I have run into speak at least a little English, which is a great relief as I have only managed to master “hello” in Czech.

Tomorrow is the famous Charles Bridge, the Franz Kafka museum and seeing Verdi’s Aida at the State Opera.

Landed!

2010-06-10T11:33:00.001-07:00

With as much traveling as I have done, I was surprised to find myself not very excited as my plane approached Frankfurt. I was again going to be alone in a foreign country. It’s been 3 ½ years since I was in Europe (Spain, Italy and Austria), but it feels like a lifetime, what with 4 months in Southeast Asia, 2 months in South America, and a month in India and Bhutan stuck in between (besides Alaska, the Jack Johnson tour, and various other trips).

I now wait in the under-construction train station at the Frankfurt airport for my train to Prague. I got as far east as Frankfurt using miles, so the train was a logical way to see some of the countryside and make my way further east. Slowly, the few German words I learned from my many trips to Vienna to see my sister are coming back to me, and with a little hesitation I manage to utter “danke” to the nice man who gave me coffee for the 2 paltry euros I had scavenged from my spare change drawer. Seems the network is down and there is no cash or credit to be had (there was an embarrassing moment when I almost handed him an Australian five dollar bill, which I had grabbed at home thinking it was a five euro note!)
Turns out the train took me only as far as Nuremburg. Then it was a bus to Prague. How did I miss that when booking? Maybe it was because it was all in German. It was a nice bus, on the nice autobahn, and I curled up into a ball on the bus seat and fell asleep.

I awoke to brilliant sun over rolling green hills, greener forests and small red-roofed hamlets in the Czech countryside. In Prague it is 35 degrees Celsius – HOT- and everyone seems to enjoy a cold glass of beer at the outdoor cafes. The heat also seems to bring out the worst in people’s wardrobes. Yikes!

Timber!!

2010-04-12T09:03:00.000-07:00

Although out of order, I had to post a series of photos I took as a 200 foot tower cracked at the base and fell from Perito Moreno glacier. We were very lucky to have seen it!

Goodbye Patagonia!

2010-04-01T09:26:00.000-07:00

After one night in Punta Arenas where we dined on fresh king crab from the icy southern waters, our group said goodbye to one another and went our separate ways. It wasn't really a night since my flight back to Santiago was changed to leave at 4:15 a.m., meaning I was up at 2:30 a.m. While the airport in Santiago is highly functional, the domestic flights have been relegated to undesirable time slots, and are still operating out of tents on the tarmac, hence the ungodly departure time.

I was sad to be leaving so soon. Two weeks was not enough. Jenny was going on to Easter Island, which would have been a great addition, but given the state of the airport and flights, I thought I would make that destination another time.

Once in Santiago I had 12 hours to kill before my flight home (this takes me full circle back to my first blog post of the trip). Mountain Travel Sobek secured a day room at the Holiday Inn at the airport to rest for the day, which made things much easier as I was able to take a nap and go for a swim in their unheated pool, in addition to catching up on internet time. Good karma stayed with me, and I received a free upgrade to business class on LAN for my flight home. Sweet!

Thanks for being with me! I will be back around June 10, when I leave for Eastern Europe, specifically the Czech Republic, Slovenia and Croatia, with a launch point of central Germany.

Elizabeth

Above photo: Red fox outside of Torres del Paine smiles for the camera.

Puerto Natales, then Home

2010-03-31T08:37:00.000-07:00

The last day of the trip (not including travel days)! Another long drive from Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales, then to Punta Arenas for the flight back to Santiago. Images flash.... In the bus, Juanito (the drive), TC (trip leader) and Sergio (local guide) are passing around the mate cup. Outside, a beret-wearing gaucho chases down and ropes an errant calf. Non-native alfalfa being bailed for a long winter. Granite spires and snow-covered peaks of the Patagonian ice-field.

We reached Puerto Natales mid-morning in time for a coffee and hot chocolate refreshment. The town reminds me much of Kodiak Island, Alaska; quiet and charming.

Almost to Punta Arenas, we stopped at an estancia for an asado (traditional barbeque). The food was fine, but I wasn't thrilled that the owner had turned his property into a kind of zoo to show tourists, keeping otherwise wild animals and birds in cages. They also gave us a sheep-shearing demonstration, which I could have done without. Watching a terrified sheep lose its coat has no appeal!

In Patagonia, ranchers have have been raising sheep for the last 100 years. Now, their big market is China. But sheep hooves are very damaging to the soil, making it harder for the wild animals to survive. In contrast, the native guanacos have soft padded feet that tread lightly...

Outside Puerto Natales for the first time I saw plastic bag pollution, with hundreds of plastic bags caught in stunted deciduous beech trees. Until then, I had seen not a one plastic bag littering the landscape. I noticed that no one gave plastic bags - even when I asked for one to cover a book I would be putting in my suitcase. Didn't have them. I asked about the pollution issue, but no one seemed to know. I think they realized a long time ago that wind and plastic bags don't mix.

Goodbye Torres del Paine

2010-03-30T13:50:00.000-07:00

After such a brutal walk in the wind, we had the option the next day of easy hiking with the whole group, or a challenging 6-8 hour round trip jaunt up to the base of the spires of Paine (for which the park is named). Only Jenny and I chose the hard way. We went with a local guide, leaving for sunrise (which, granted, was at 7:45 a.m.) and beating the crowds which flock to the park for this very hike. It wasn't too steep until the last scramble up the boulders of the terminal moraine (that's glacier-speak) to look down on the glacial lake as the base of the spires (see photo). It was worth it, however, and we were entertained with stories of climbing the spires by our local, rock-climbing guide. It was freezing up there, even in the bright sunshine, and I couldn't imagine trying to cling to a rock face while my hands went numb!

Reflecting on the trials of the trip, we realized how lucky we had been with the weather in this unpredictable part of the world. We were never caught in real rain, or forced to change plans because of weather. While we wore our rain gear every day it was more for the wind than threat of rain. It seemed like a ray of sunshine was following us....

El Viento (The Wind)

2010-03-30T07:24:00.000-07:00

We finally crossed into Chile for the last couple days of the trip at the National Park of Torres del Paine. Blustery rain pummeled the estancia where we were staying all night, but we awoke to bright sunshine... with howling winds. This was the day we would learn about the winds of Patagonia! Our group again split into 2 groups, and the same 3 of us braved it for a 5 hour hike through spectacular scenery, while the remainder were grounded lest they be blown away. I have never been in winds like this - the kind that literally blow you off your feet. We all stumbled, like we were drunk, down the narrow trail, but were rewarded by the views. We saw some clown-like Austral parakeets being blown about, but the wildlife was otherwise hunkered down, letting the wind pass.

Patagonian Steppe

2010-03-28T11:16:00.000-07:00

On the second day in El Chalten, 3 of us donned crampons and did a glacier hike, which gave us a whole different perspective on these massive ice fields. It wasn't raining, but it was COLD, maybe the coldest day so far (see photo below. Yes, I wore my Peruvian alpaca hat everyday. Not that cute, but very warm!) To get to the glacier, we took a boat across the glacial lake, and got up close and personal with some recently calved, very blue icebergs.

After El Chalten, we drove south again past El Calafate, back towards Chile. It was a long day over the brown Patagonian Steppe, but the advantage to being in a private vehicle is the ability to stop anytime to look at wildlife, birds, scenery or just to have coffee at a converted estancia.

We were all pretty interested in birds, so no one minded if we stopped for 20 minutes to photograph a rhea (flightless bird - see photo above) or an eagle. Also above: a herd of guanacos stops grazing to look at us. They are related to the llama.

El Chalten & Mt. Fitzroy

2010-03-28T07:20:00.000-07:00

Above: Sunrise on Mt. Fitzroy

Disaster. The afternoon that we arrived in El Chalten, base for exploring Mt. Fitzroy, I started to feel queasy. As I lay in my hotel room waiting for the inevitable, I summoned all my will to make the virus pass as quickly as possible, since our first hike of the trip was the following day. I also willed the weather to clear as it was pouring rain, combined with fierce winds - if it didn't clear, the hike wasn't going to happen. I drifted in and out of sleep for the next 14 hours, but woke in the morning feeling okay, able to eat a little, and happy to see clear skies! A total of 5 of 7 in our group caught the virus, but I only missed one dinner (whereas most people were out for 2 days), which I attribute to my very fast metabolism. Out out damn virus!

The hike split into 2 groups, with me, Jenny and one of the retirees taking the long route with the local guide. This turned into a marathon, 15 mile hike, up and down in the glacial valley below Fitzroy. Somehow I willed myself to finish, but wasn't feeling my strongest, to say the least! The hike was beautiful though, and we had fun spotting all the different birds, including the Magellenic woodpecker, a foot-tall, redheaded joker who had eluded us until then.
Below: Sunrise over El Chalten. Sunrises in this part of the world are amazing!

Senor Perito Moreno

2010-03-27T07:40:00.000-07:00

El Calafate has grown out of nothing to serve as the base for the hordes of tourists coming to see perhaps the most famous glacier in South America, the Perito Moreno Glacier. We saw many glaciers, but this was the granddaddy, the most blue, the most awe-inspiring. It is one of the few glaciers that is still advancing, at the rate of a meter a day. And when the ice hits the water and breaks off ("calves"), the thundering roar brings all to attention.

Perito Moreno brings so many visitors, the government constructed a series of railed walkways across from it for safe viewing. I think people were going right down to the edge and getting occasionally getting crushed by an errant iceberg. After scaling all the walkways in the bitterly cold wind, we hopped aboard a boat to get a view from the bottom - the boats keep a safe distance, but being down on the glacial lake gives you a wholly different perspective of the glacier.

Back at El Calafate that evening, a stomach bug that one person had on the ship claimed a third victim (3 out of 7?! I hope it doesn't make it to me!), which was too bad, since we were continuing to enjoy excellent food. The advantage to being in a tourist center was a proliferation of quality restaurants. I was a little beefed out and had homemade gnocchi. Yum! After 3 days in Argentina, from what I could figure out, the food is all about pizza, pasta, beef and dulce de leche. I can think of worse things!

On to Argentina

2010-03-27T07:26:00.000-07:00

On Wednesday morning our ship docked in Ushuaia, Argentina. Ushuaia is on the little dislocated piece of Argentina in the very south, on the main island of Tierra del Fuego. The islands of Patagonia known as "Tierra del Fuego" (Land of Fire) were so named by the first European explorers because when they sailed through the channels, the land was engulfed in smoke from the fires of the natives. Today, nothing remains of the native culture, having been entirely wiped out by the Europeans in a matter of years.

A note about the Mare Australis before we leave her: I can't recommend it enough for anyone interested in Patagonia. The rooms were comfortable and extremely clean and well-maintained, the staff was knowledgeable and helpful, and the food - ah, the food. I have never willingly eaten so much steak, but they really had the best of the entire journey, cooked perfectly - kind of melt-in-your-mouth. There was also king crab night, where I finished 3 plates of those who didn't want theirs (weird!), a Chilean specialty buffet lunch.... and scrumptious desserts. I think we all gained a few pounds aboard.

After a early departure from the ship and a short walk through Tierra del Fuego National Park, we boarded a plane headed north for El Calafate, Argentina. Between the lush coastal forests of Southern Patagonia and El Calafate (which is located at the foot of the Argentinian / East side of the Andes), we crossed the dusty brown expanse of the Patagonian Steppe, another one of the 4 distinct areas of Patagonia. On this flight I could really see how Patagonia is one of the least populated places on earth.

Above photo: Ushuaia looks a lot like Alaska, doesn't it? The comparisons were everywhere, and I am sure the guides get tired of hearing it!

Avenue of the Glaciers

2010-03-26T08:18:00.000-07:00

On the second to last evening aboard the Mare Australis, cruising through the Beagle Channel, we passed through what is called the "Avenue of the Glaciers." The channel runs along the south side of the Darwin Range of mountains - a range completely in Tierra del Fuego, and not part of the Andes which contains a giant ice field that can be seen in the glaciers that hang down the valleys of the range. One after another, massive glaciers came into view as we cruised along, our ship accompanied by albatross, petrals, terns and cormorants - flying with purpose back and forth across the channel.

The channel was named after the HMS Beagle - the ship carrying a young Charles Darwin on his now famous journey to South America in the 19th century. He actually spent more time in Patagonia than the Galapagos Islands, and documented much of the unique flora and fauna of this extreme land.

Isla Hornos

2010-03-23T18:00:00.000-07:00

One of the highlights of the boat portion of the trip was the opportunity to visit Isla Hornos, or Horn Island, which is where the legendary Cape Horn is found: the southernmost point of South America, often referred to as the end of the world (where one unlucky Chilean sailor and his family are stationed). The ship always tries to visit, but actually landing the Zodiac boats is very weather and sea condition-dependent. As you can imagine, the area of ocean where the mighty Pacific meets the Atlantic can be a turbulent place.

The morning of the planned landing we woke to 6 foot swells and all of us thought a landing was out of the question. However, as we neared the island the sea calmed and the crew hastily readied everything for our visit ashore. We were so lucky, as the sea stayed calm for a couple hours as we hustled to the island and back. I stayed as long as I could at the lookout facing the actual cape (see photo). It was an unearthly place; many people remarked on it being a spiritual experience to visit this remote island.

Top photo shows me with Cape Horn in the background. Yes, it was cold!

Penguins and Elephant Seals

2010-03-22T08:39:00.000-07:00

Our first day on the Mare Australis brought us to Ainsworth Bay and Tucker Island, blips in the maze of Southern Patagonia, where wildlife thrives in the freezing wind and water.
At Ainsworth Bay, a couple young male elephant seals were resting and we were lucky enough to snap a few photos. They would be the only ones we saw up close on the trip (there are large colonies on the Atlantic coast, which we didn't visit.) The naturalist guides led us on a short walk to explain the unique flora - many small shrubs, mosses and deciduous beech forests.
The afternoon excursion was by Zodiac boat to Tucker Island, home to a colony of Magellenic penguins and numerous rock cormorants and king cormorants. I was glad that the passengers were not permitted to exit the boats, and we were limited to snapping photos from the shore. The penguins were not shy at all, and didn't seem bothered by our presence. Looking at the peaceful, goofy birds, it was hard to imagine that 200 years ago, crews from ships passing though would club thousands of them to stockpile as meat on board.

The Mare Australis

2010-03-21T10:11:00.000-07:00

After a quick tour of Punta Arenas, we boarded the Mare Australis, a 100 passenger, luxury expedition/cruise ship which would take us through the channels, fjords and islands of Southern Patagonia, to Cape Horn and finally to Tierra del Fuego. The ship was not what I think a standard cruise ship would be (having never been on one), as there were no parties, no hot tub or pool or other on-board diversions. Instead, there were lectures and films on the history, glaciology, flora and fauna of Patagonia. Trained naturalists took us on excursions via Zodiac boat to glaciers and islands. The staff was excellent and professional and tried to make sure that each guest had a good experience - an enthusiasm I didn't expect at the end of the season from a crew dealing with 2 new groups of tourists each week.

What I saw was a wild, uninhabited and beautiful place at the end of the world. I felt very lucky to be there.

Above photo: Sunrise aboard the Mare Australis.

History Repeats

2010-03-19T11:25:00.000-07:00

Like the frontier towns of Alaska, Punta Arenas was built up in the late 1800´s, and shares the same feel of Anchorage: straight grid streets with ocean views, slanted summer light of an extreme latitude, and that certain grittiness of a hard life.
Even though many of the surviving buildings date from the late 1800's, the area of Punta Arenas was being used as a port for a couple hundred of years before that, being at the western end of the Straight of Magellan, and the primary port of call for ships after rounding Cape Horn.

Almost 15 years ago I read Two Years Before the Mast, Richard Henry Dana's harrowing account of making the trip from Boston to California in 1830 aboard a wooden two-masted schooner, and his account of trying to sail around Cape Horn - and the extreme winds and rough seas - stayed in my mind ever since. There is something mythical about it - but more on that later. Punta Arenas was our port for boarding the Mare Australis, the ship that would take us through the fjords and islands of the Beagle Channel to Tierra del Fuego.

Santiago: Business As Usual?

2010-03-19T10:56:00.000-07:00

Mercifully, I was able to finagle an upgrade to business class for my flight down to Santiago, and my injured back tolerated the 15 hours without pain. I had a day in Santiago to meet up with my group and have a city tour before flying to Punta Arenas in the south.

Walking around the many pedestrian streets, it appeared that life was back to normal for many Chileans. It is nearing the end of summer, and the people were out enjoying the sun, eating gelato, and, it seems, enjoying a smoke (there seem to be a lot more smokers in Chile than the other places I have been recently). One day in Santiago was not enough though, and I have resolved to come back and see more of this very modern city.

As I mentioned, for this trip, I joined an organized group. It is not my preference - I like going it alone, but seeing Patagonia on one´s own, via public buses required a lot more time than I wanted to spend (the region is mostly uninhabited). Mountain Travel Sobek has been running trips to Patagonia for 20 years, so I knew I would be in good hands too. The group consisted of 5 seniors (over 65), and Jenny (37) - a recovering investment banker from NYC who is traveling for awhile like me. A good group!

Hello Patagonia!

2010-03-19T06:38:00.000-07:00

I am on the last day of my trip to Patagonia, waiting at the Holiday Inn in Santiago for my overnight flight home. I decided that I had better start my blog entries for this trip!

Patagonia is a region of South America that covers part of Argentina and part of Chile, starting around latitude 40 degrees south, then south from there to the tip of South America. Patagonia has unique flora and fauna, and incredible winds, being the only land mass on the planet at that latitude (it is even more south than New Zealand!). There I would see some amazing things: penguin colonies, elephant seals, glaciers calving building-sized icebergs, flightless ostrich-sized birds, the Patagonian Ice Field (the 3rd larget fresh water reserve on earth) and Cape Horn - the end of the world.

The whole trip was put into question when 5 days before my scheduled departure to Santiago, Chile suffered an enormous earthquake. The city of Santiago was spared too much damage, but the airport was temporarily shut down due to structural damage. They were soon up and running again, out of tents on the tarmac (see photo), and I was able to leave as scheduled, arrive in Santiago and fly out again to Punta Arenas, in the south. As of today, almost 3 weeks after the earthquake, the Santiago Airport is still operating out of tents on the tarmac, but everyone is being very patient and nice, and are doing the best they can to get the airport repaired. (The Holiday Inn itself suffered enough damage to render the elevators inoperable, and put cracks in all of the walls).

Although I am starting this leg of my blog at the end of trip, I hope you follow along as I relate my thoughts and experiences on this incredible trip!

Coming Home

2009-11-29T04:00:00.001-08:00

Sitting at the Quito Airport, waiting for my Continental Airlines flight to Houston, I think I have never been so excited to come home. Even at the end of my Asia journey, despite the heat and time and distance, there was a little sadness in leaving. Not so today – I am looking forward to getting back to my own poochies, the ones at the Humane Society, and of course, the ones I love (you know who you are!!)

The week in the Galapagos was magical, but not in the way I thought it would be. The islands are volcanic (young ones at that, in Earth-formation-time), and you would think that they would be all lava rock, speckled on the edges with bumpy black marine iguanas, blue-footed boobies and sea lions. But the slopes of the distinct volcanic cones are lush with cloud forests and ferns, and populated with all manner of wildlife.

Galapagos

2009-11-28T18:08:00.000-08:00

Just back from the Galapagos Islands! Here are a few photos, words will follow later.

Orchids and Fog

2009-11-22T16:15:00.000-08:00

Today was an excursion to the El Pahuma Orchid Reserve and Pululahua Reserve – an extinct volcano crater which is inhabited and farmed. We got there just before the daily curtain of fog rolled in and filled the crater, obscuring the view.

At the orchid reserve, my guide showed took me through all the different species of orchids that grow in the temperate cloud forest, as well as a lot of the other amazing plants (see the photo of the elephant’s ears!) These cloud forests fit in between the highlands and the Amazon jungle and have wholly separate ecosystems and plants from the other areas, making the for a dizzying array of species in this small country.

Tomorrow I am off to the Galapagos Islands, 600 miles to the west of Ecuador in the Pacific Ocean. I will be without my computer, and possibly without internet at all, until Saturday night, so no updates until then.
Have a great week!

Don't Be Lazy, Don't Steal, Don't Lie

2009-11-21T16:33:00.000-08:00

Those three commandments are from the Inca, and I think they cover the essentials. Can you imagine if everyone in our society followed them?

I am relieved to find myself back in Quito, after 2 days on the grey, clouded in coast. Montanita was not my scene. I can imagine it gets quite crowded during the surf season, and that the parties rage all night.

Tomorrow I am off to the cloud forest, for a hike in an ecological reserve. Just me, my guide and the flowers; I think that’s more my speed!

Back to the Pacific

2009-11-21T09:22:00.000-08:00

After a rainy day browsing Incan ruins outside of Cuenca, I took a short flight to Guayquil, then a car to reach Montanita, on the south-central coast of Ecuador. On reaching the Pacific, I realized that I hadn’t seen the ocean in a month! However, I was greeted by onshore winds that put a mushy crumble on the little (1-1 ½ foot) swell that was in the water.

I had chosen Montanita to sample the Ecuadorian coast for a couple days – it happens to be the epicenter of the Ecuadorian surfing scene. If I could get in a surf, it was most likely in this place. It turned out to be a backpacker haven, although I have a hard time understanding this since the prices are 30% higher than elsewhere in Ecuador (which are already high in comparison to other similarly situated countries). Every other shop has the word “surf” in its name, the streets are lined with bars and restaurants catering to foreigners, and sunburned gringos with dreadlocks have set up tables displaying cheap trinkets for sale.

The surf breaks themselves are a beach break (described as tolerable in my Lonely Planet) and a right point (that happens to be right outside my hotel room). Unfortunately, today the wind made such a mess of things, I couldn’t get motivated to get in, despite the hoards of enthusiastic beginners taking a turn in the slop ( I also noticed that most of the locals were wearing fullsuits…), and a trio of enthusiastic sea kayakers. For those you from San Diego, think Pipes on a blown, overcast day…..

Counting

2009-11-18T05:15:00.000-08:00

A wave of homesickness hit me last night, together with the rain that poured in through the decrepit taxi’s window (I left it open to air out the gasoline fumes filling the car). My “traveler’s Spanish” has been exhausted, and I feel bad that I have not spent the time to learn Spanish properly. My well-intentioned resolutions to go home and study Spanish always seem to evaporate quickly after I return home from a Spanish-speaking country. Another stomach bug – Ecuadorian version – has found me too, which has not helped matters any.

Yesterday I went with a guide and one other tourist to Cajas National Park, not too far outside Cuenca, but a world away from city influence. This is a huge watershed area, blessed with hundreds of lakes, that provides Cuenca’s water supply. It feels pristine, thanks to aggressive conservation efforts by the city’s water department, which runs it. “Cajas” means cold in Quechua (local language), and indeed the area lived up to its name after the clouds rolled in and the rain started.

I fly home 11 days from now, and although I have the Galapagos Islands yet to come, I am looking forward to getting back among familiar faces.

Cuenca

2009-11-16T15:53:00.000-08:00

Situated in a valley in the Southern Ecuadorian Highlands, Cuenca is a colonial gem – a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999, but dedicated to preservation for 20 years prior to that. I booked a private afternoon city tour, which took me to the many churches (the oldest one is 470 years old), streets and boulevards and colonial mansions preserved in the city. Cuenca is a relatively progressive: cockfighting and bullfighting (so popular throughout Ecuador) are banned here, there are 6 universities (for a city of 450,000), and there are plans to shut down the downtown streets and install trams.

Cuenca is also the leading center for fabrication of the Montechristi hat (known to most of the world as the Panama hat). It got that designation after newspapers around the world published photos showing workers on the Panama canal wearing them (they had been imported from Ecuador for the workers). But it turns out that the reed used in their construction can only be grown on the coast of Ecuador, and so they are still only produced in Ecuador despite the misnomer.

While I was afraid that my time in Ecuador would be all rain, it has been warm and sunny since Friday. Good weather for me spells continued drought for Ecuador – a country that relies on the flows of its rivers for hydro-electric power. As a result, there have been rotating blackouts everywhere (save the big hotels which have their own generators).

Volcanoes

2009-11-16T04:25:00.000-08:00

I am back in Quito, but head off to the southern colonial gem of Cuenca this afternoon. This last weekend, I stayed in one of the many restored 17th-century haciendas, complete with stables, enormous fireplaces and huge-beamed ceilings. The hacienda style of architecture, with a tiled courtyard and fountain in the middle of the sprawling white-washed house has always been my favorite, and I fell in love with the hotel. Well, really all of Ecuador is just lovely.

Like in Bolivia, the valleys of the Ecuadorian highlands are surrounded by volcanoes, ranging from 12,500 to 15,000 feet. Here, as in Bolivia, the glaciers on these are shrinking at an alarming rate. We spent the morning hiking up around a crater lake on the shoulder of one of these extinct volcanoes (Cotacachi), which afforded fantastic views across all of Otovalo valley. On the drive back we were confronted with the very clear view of Cotopaxi – another volcano close to Quito that remains hidden behind cloud cover much of the time.

Otovalo Snapshot

2009-11-15T14:50:00.000-08:00

Otovalo is in a large valley, sprawled out between 4 extinct volcanoes, each one with a distinct, different personality (as believed by the locals). Even though the altitude is close to 9,000 feet, the valley is green and lush, as are the hillsides leading up to slumbering craters.

My guide and I arrived here after a stop at the official equator – 0 degrees latitude. It turns out that just last month he made a trip to Bolivia, following much the same route as me, and has been able to assist in my comparisons of these two very different Andean countries. Even though the Andes reach in Venezuela, Chile and Argentina, the “Andean culture” of the high mountains (think panpipes, llamas, and alpaca sweaters in geometric designs) is limited to the countries of Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador. I feel that the latter two are extremely different, but it is hard to quantify at this moment. I invariably draw the comparison that Bolivia is to Ecuador what Burma is to Thailand – sharing similar cultures, religions, roots and ancestors, but one being far more advanced than the other.

The local people of local people of Otavalo have a very interesting traditional dress that has clearly borrowed from European influences over the last 500 years since the Spanish arrived. Men and women wear espadrilles on their feet and fedoras on their heads, both with a long single braid of jet black hair down their backs. Women wrap multi-stranded gold beads around their necks, and coral colored beads around their wrists and don lacy embroidered blouses and long wool skirts topped with embroidered sashes. Men favor cropped , light colored cotton pants and solid blue wool ponchos. Smiles are ready.

Today I infused my share of American cash into the Ecuadorian economy, buying several rugs, a couple paintings (on goatskin no less), a Panama hat (such hats originated in Ecuador – did you know that?), some panpipes and other typical Andean souvenirs.

Quito

2009-11-13T03:41:00.000-08:00

Farewell, Bolivia. Yesterday I hopped two flights over from La Paz to Quito, landing among clouds and sprinkles, but at just under 9,000 feet above sea level, the climate is much more mild than what I had been experiencing in Bolivia.

My first impression led me to compare this capital city with La Paz (which is actually not the real capital, but a kind of de facto capitol). Less crowded, by far, even in the old town with its one way streets and cobblestones. More diversity – people of various heights and hair color, perhaps indicating more European descent. More people seem to speak English. I read that one in 10 Ecuadorians lives and works outside the country, meaning almost everyone has a relative outside Ecuador (in the U.S. or Europe), and I think this may lead to a greater awareness of the world outside their country, even if they have never been.

Today I head north (and down) to the Otovalo area for the weekend, which hosts a large weekend market, and I will get to see a lot of the countryside. I already feel that there is a huge contrast between Ecuador and Bolivia – I guess this was one of the reasons I chose them (instead of 2 contiguous countries). It will be interesting to find out more……

White City

2009-11-10T16:09:00.000-08:00

Butter cookies of all shapes and sizes, multi-layer white cakes with swirls of whipped frosting and candied fruit, butter-laden biscuits, French rolls, candies. Bolivians sure love the sweets! I gain 5lbs just looking at all them in the market and the shop windows….

Sucre (La Ciudad Blanca de Las Americas) is a bustling, relatively modern city (and is the capitol of Bolivia), dating from 1538 when the Spanish established it as an administrative center for its colonies in Bolivia, Argentina and part of Peru. The buildings in Sucre are even more well preserved and orderly than Potosi, and the city was also declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991. At a mere 9,000 feet above sea level, the weather is warm and dry – mid 70s – a welcome relief from the brisk to frigid air of the last 3 weeks.

I arrived via car from Potosi, driven by my guide for the day. Such a nice alternative to the bus, even for 160 kilometers! I wish I had a couple more days here to enjoy the weather, but Ecuador calls, so I am off to La Paz tomorrow and Quito the day after.

If anyone is reading this, feel free to leave me a comment!

Highest City in the World

2009-11-09T12:37:00.000-08:00

Tomorrow marks the anniversary of Potosi’s independence, and today the streets were filled with parades of marching bands from all of the schools in the area. Tomorrow will see even more festivities…. The parades, together with mild, warm weather brought everyone to the streets, which were mostly closed to cars, so it was a good day for strolling the streets. I had a brief city tour, but as the guide spoke little English, I found my guide book and self-touring more informative.

Founded in the mid-1500’s, Potosi was a jewel in Spain’s colonial crown at the time, growing to be bigger than London or Paris of that time, and sending home tons and tons of silver to fuel Spain’s colonial ambitions. Unfortunately, the conditions of the indigenous miners extracting that silver from treacherous mines resulted in approximately 7 out of 10 dying one way or another. The silver boom lasted about 100 years before the claim ran out and the city went into decline. The mines are still plied for tin and other minerals, but apparently the conditions for the miners have changed little. The life expectancy of a miner is about 35 years.

One of the de rigueur tourist experiences in Potosi is donning hard hat, coveralls and headlamp and visiting a working mine. Get your photo taken all made up like a real miner! But somehow I can’t bring myself to be a tourist to suffering, and I have eschewed the experience.

Nonetheless, I have enjoyed the city and found a great restaurant that serves some great vegetarian food, in addition to the standard llama or pollo a la plancha. Salad, vegetables, whole wheat bread! It’s funny how much happier I feel when I am eating healthy food. I am looking forward to a reduction in altitude (the next city is at less than 9,000), as the bright sun, dust, and altitude are taking their toll on my eyes and sinuses. My nose is red enough to suppose that I have been swilling Scotch instead of agua mineral.

Plastic Flowers

2009-11-09T02:42:00.000-08:00

Greetings from Potosi, the highest city in the world at 12,300 feet above sea level. The city was founded by the Spaniards in the mid-1500’s after a major silver deposit was discovered here. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, it has the best collection of Spanish colonial architecture in South America.

I was fortunate enough to get a car ride from Uyuni to Potosi with my tour company – only 3 ½ hours. The other option was an all day, 6 hour bus ride, which I was glad to avoid. Leaving Uyuni, a dusty crater of a town on the edge of the salt flat, all I could see were plastic bags stuck in the scrappy shrubs, at least one bag per, giving the landscape the appearance of having grown these black and white plastic flowers. Seeing this, I remembered what my guide had said on day one: that there is a plague that is upon all of South America – plastic. I told him it wasn’t confined to South America....

Even by Bolivian standards, the landscape on the drive to Potosi was stunning. We started in desert which looked much like the American Southwest, with pink-blooming cacti and tiny green shrubs, then into a lunar landscape of strange rounded hills in hues of green, purple and red (the whole area is chock full of minerals). From there, it was giant sand dunes, studded with thorny green shrub-trees and coarse grasses, before we finally passed into the red-rock barren landscape of Potosi. Almost of all of these various settings are marked by the tall, distinct forms of llamas out to graze (they are all domesticated).

Today I have a city tour to admire the architecture, then tomorrow I am off to Sucre, the capitol of Bolivia for one night before flying (thank god) back to La Paz.

Note: the photo shows my guide picking up plastic trash on the salt flat.

Salted

2009-11-08T09:58:00.000-08:00

November 6, 2009

After a cold night, we set out across the Salar de Chiguana, a smaller salt flat south of Uyuni. White and desolate, it is surrounded on all sides by the brown peaks of extinct volcanoes, and the red and white peak of one active one. The road was rough and tumble as we headed north – in fact all the roads in the southwest (which are exclusively dirt) share the same characteristic: consistent washboard caused by all the Toyota Landcruisers going full speed across them. As the drivers try to avoid the washboard they have created, they carve out more and more roads on either side of the existing roads, severely damaging this fragile environment.

We saw many more lagunas, complete with flamingos, sticking it out in the icy wind. At the Salar de Uyuni, the scene completely changed. It is 10,000 square kilometers of solid (or nearly solid) salt, thick enough at this time of year to drive across. Geologists believe that there was once a massive lake here that evaporated, leaving behind the salt deposits. There is still water below the 10 cm thick salt crust, which is the cause of the polygonal shapes on the surface (see photo).

A word about the food…. For those who followed my blog while I was in Asia, you know that I get very excited about trying new cuisines. Bolivia has not provided much excitement. The basic fare is a piece of meat (maybe llama), chicken, or, closer to Lake Titicaca, fish (trucha), accompanied by rice and potatoes. I think I have eaten more red meat in the last 2 weeks than in the last 4 years. If a vegetable finds my plate, I am ecstatic. The local people often use salsa picante to spice up this bland assemblage, but it usually isn’t offered to tourists. All the white rice and potatoes is accompanied by lots of soft white bread (served for breakfast, an with lunch and dinner). I have confirmed that this is typical Bolivian fare – not just the tourist menu. Sigh. At least I am not in danger of gaining any weight on this leg of the journey; I usually lose interest in my meal before I finish it.

Dust to Dust

2009-11-08T07:38:00.000-08:00

November 3, 2009
After ½ a day in La Paz, I once again hit the road to see more of Bolivia. First, there was a 3 hour bus ride due south, no stops, with an American horror flick dubbed in Spanish playing at full volume. It was the oddest choice for a bus full of gringo tourists and local Bolivians.

The ride was flat across the Altiplano, looking much like the American Midwest, except that all the houses were made from mud-adobe brick. This is one of the enduring images of Bolivia, even though only 35% of the country is Altiplano; most of the country lies in the sub-tropical and tropical zones, and includes a large portion of Amazon jungle.

After finding my way through a couple dusty towns that looked for the most part like they had been bombed and left, I set off with a guide and driver across the Salar de Uyuni (salt flats) and into the Reserva Edoardo Avaroa, an ecological reserve in the southwest corner of Bolivia, near the border of Chile. This is a vast area of arid high desert, some of it so desolate that it reminds one of Mars or the moon (except that periodic springs appear from the earth, creating grassy oases for man and animal alike). A hardy relative of the llama – the vincuna – lives here, nibbling on microscopic grasses. There are also a lot of birds – most notably, the flamingos (3 different types), which favor the large salty “lagunas” (very shallow depressions that catch a bit of water) scattered throughout the area. Sadly, the lagunas are slowly drying up – attributed to global warming – and may be gone in as little as 30 years.

The one constant feature of the entire trip south has been the fine dust that works its way into everything. Coupled with vicious afternoon and evening winds, the dust has become part of my wardrobe.

The first night we stayed at a rustic guesthouse in a little settlement, which was built right up against the rock, with walls of rock and adobe, and straw insulation for ceilings. The icy wind howled all around us, it stayed pretty warm despite below freezing temperatures (we found solid ice on all the streams in the morning).
The second night we stayed at a brand new rock and mortar hotel constructed truly in the middle of nowhere. It was actually quite nice – the nicest place I have stayed since leaving La Paz! They are relying on the tourists who visit the reserve for both an income and entertainment, I suspect, as it is a very lonely existence.

The Well of Recovery

2009-11-02T14:45:00.000-08:00

On arriving at La Senda Verde, I wasn’t sure I wanted stay at all, much less 2 nights. It was hot. There were bugs. I was sick. Also, being a wildlife refuge first, guesthouse second made it not an ideal location for recovery. However, after a surprisingly deep 10 hours of sleep (despite the sounds of the jungle invading my thatched-roof cottage), I woke 75% recovered, and with a new perspective on things. I made friends with an Australian girl traveling basically the same route as me, and we did a little stream scramble up to a refreshing grotto, where I felt my recovery much advanced.

While I feel like I hadn’t signed up for such a rustic detour, I have to admit that I enjoyed the break from the arid heights of La Paz and the Altiplano. Damaged sinuses recovering. The refuge, a private facility, was full of animals and birds brought by SOS – the animal rescue agency of Bolivia, in addition to a great collection of dogs owned by volunteers and the proprietor.

Welcome to the Jungle

2009-11-02T14:24:00.000-08:00

Almost unwittingly, I find myself back in the jungle, slathering on the 40% DEET, staring at a thatch roof, wondering what little bugs will invade my space tonight.

I had limited choice of accommodation since it was a holiday weekend, so I ended up at La Senda Verde - a wildlife refuge with guesthouses. The area had been described as "sub-tropical", lying at 3,000 feet above sea level, but it sure felt like jungle to me, complete with monkeys, screaming parrots and mosquitoes. This is not really what I had in mind... I really felt like I had enough of the jungle in SE Asia.

La Senda Verde is in Yolosa, which has the distinction of providing the endpoint to the World's Most Dangerous Road. Unfortunately, my mountain biking adventure down that road didn't quite turn out as planned. The morning of, at about 2 a.m., I woke to severe stomach cramps, which continued through the early morning as I got sicker and sicker. I debated staying in La Paz, but that would mean missing my chance to see this other, different part of Bolivia, so I sucked it up and started the ride. I made it only a third of the way down before I decided to jump in the sag wagon, so weak I felt. Nonetheless, I was able to take in some spectacular scenery, and descend from the Altiplano for a break in altitude.

Back in La Paz

2009-10-30T10:06:00.000-07:00

Friday October 30 finds me back in La Paz, preparing for a three day weekend down in Yolosa, which is in the subtropical area northeast of La Paz (elevation: about 3,000 feet). Here is where they grow the famous coca leaves, and the best coffee in Bolivia. Guess which one I will be sampling....

To get to Yolosa I will be taking the "World's Most Dangerous Road". No kidding. Since earning this moniker, a bypass has been constructed so the road is no longer used for motor traffic, but is still used by adventure companies to take people on mountain bikes for a 9,000 foot downhill ride. In some places the road is only 9 feet wide, which will test my fear of heights! I will be leaving my computer in La Paz, so full report only when I get back.

In great contrast to my first few days in La Paz, today was sunny and warm and breezy, making a great day for the obligatory protests of one sort or another that are a daily occurrence in the city. I met with my travel agent, then did as the Pacenas do and headed for a salteneria for a mid-morning snack of saltenas de pollo (saltenas are like Mexican empanadas). It seems that everyone is on the streets, excited for this 3 day weekend which includes Halloween, but more importantly, November 1 - the Day of the Dead, a significant holiday in Latin America.

Isla del Sol

2009-10-29T15:43:00.000-07:00

Isla del Sol (Sun Island) was a sacred place from around 500 AD, when the people of Tiwanaku built religious shrines here. One thousand years later, the Incas built their own shrines and proclaimed Sun Island the birthplace of the Sun, the Moon and the Inca dynasty.

It feels like the top of the world. Barren, bright and dry. This morning we took a boat to the far side of the island to see the remaining Inca ruins, which are not much, then hiked the 500 year old Inca trail along the spine of the island (starting above 12,000 feet, and dipping below and above over the next 3 hours). Although we started early, the sun, the altitude, and the previous day’s epic journey took their toll on me, and I practically crawled back to the hotel, where I crashed and slept for 3 hours. I nursed cup after cup of coca tea (non-narcotic) to revive me, but I was worthless for the rest of the day.

The eco-lodge where I stayed was situated on the east side of the island, facing the Peruvian side of the lake, and the highest peak in the Peruvian Andes, Illampu (over 18,000 feet). The views were stunning, especially as the sun set over the other side of Sun Island, and the peak was lit up in pinks and yellows.

Thursday the 29th takes me back to La Paz… (where I am finally able to post).

Hiking from Copacabana to Sun Island

2009-10-29T15:40:00.000-07:00

5 hours of hiking at 12,000 feet. You do the math. Tired.

In Copacabana

2009-10-27T04:16:00.000-07:00

No, I am not in Brazil! It turns out that the famous Copacabana beach in Rio de Janiero was named after this small town in the Bolivian Andes, a sacred site for Catholics, and the birthplace of the Inca civilization. There is a resemblance, as the stretch of shore that lies on Lake Titicaca is the same shape as Copacabana Beach and nestled between 2 hills, like in Rio.

It was a relief to get out of the crowded city and take in the clean air and sunshine of Copacabana. As I mentioned, it sits on the shore of Lake Titicaca – an 8,000 square kilometer body of crystal clear water high in the Andes (we are over 12,000 feet).
After visiting the Catholic church, we hiked up one of the 2 hills overlooking the town, a lung-busting ½ hour straight up. But it felt good to stretch my legs after many days of “rest” while I acclimatized. My guide is a Ukranian woman who has lived in Bolivia for 15 years, and we have had some interesting discussions about communism and politics!

Tomorrow we are off to Isla del Sol – an island in the middle of the lake that is home to ancient Inca ruins.