Hoa's Place

I spent the last 48 at Hoa’s Place, at Non Nuoc Beach, a sandy little settlement between Hoi An and Da Nang. Hoa, who speaks decent American-accented English (sprinkled liberally with 70's era American slang and wear words), is somewhat famous among the backpacker crowd, and people turn up regularly to hang out and partake of the good food and vibes. He rents out 5 basic rooms at his own place and also handles rooms for 3 of his neighbors’ houses (who don’t speak English). Hoa also maintains a small restaurant with excellent food and ice cold drinks that operates on the honor system. You order and drink what you want, then write it on your page in the book on the counter and settle up before you leave town. The evening meals are family style – basically all you can eat for $3, while sharing dishes with your fellow guests at a long table. And while the guests are all foreigners, it is a mellow spot – the antidote for the tourist packed venues of Hoi An and Nha Trang. I was happy to meet and spend some time with an English couple that is on a one-year holiday before emigrating to the Gold Coast of Australia.

Hoa was a bright spot for this somewhat weary traveler. He was the first to admit that everyone out there will try to cheat you, and cautioned me several times, on Hanoi especially. Sharing stories with Kelly and Anthony (the Brits), I am afraid that being ripped off is all too common, and it certainly colors an independent traveler's experience here. Package tourists don't get the hit, as they pay in advance and have all buses, meals etc. handled for them. I have tried to explain to people the contrast with Myanmar, where you don't get cheated or ripped off, and you can just relax (for lack of a better word). I guess I took it a bit for granted when I was there.

The surf, while sizable, was not that appealing. It comes in slowly over an unbroken 30 kilometer beach, which leads to lots currents and closeouts. A few guys in full suits paddled out on the second day, but I just couldn't get interested.