On the Inside

Alaskans call being in Alaska being “inside” and when you leave, you go “outside”. Spend any time there and you start to feel that Alaska is a special place that so envelopes you, being “inside” is a good description of being there. Nonetheless, I have an overwhelming sense that in Alaska, Mother Nature is winning. She has always had the upper hand, dishing out, alternately, the harshest winters, 24 hours of daylight, legions of mosquitoes, impassable mountain ranges. And the natives who have inhabited the land for 10,000 years have bowed to that force. Untamed.

For 3 days, Wendy and I floated down the famous Inside Passage from Juneau to Bellingham, Washington. We did a poor man’s cruise, taking the ferry, which traces much of the same route as the behemoth cruise ships of Holland America, Celebrity and Princess.

From Kodiak, we flew over to Juneau for a short one afternoon and night before a 4 a.m. ferry departure. Much to our dismay, not only was it raining, 4 cruise ships from the aforementioned companies were docked in Juneau, and their passengers had flooded the downtown district, filling the t-shirt, jewelry and fur shops. Having seen parts of “real” Alaska, we avoided the made for tourist experience and heading to the Rainbow Grocery to stock up for the ferry, since I had heard that the food options on board were less than ideal and very pricey. After dinner and a movie and 4 hours sleep, our 3 a.m. wake up call came very early.

Unfortunately, in our rush to get out the door to the ferry (which turned out to be 6 hours late), my back went out again, this time in a very painful spasm that was not quelled by ibuprofen. Wendy carried all the bags while I very painfully made my way. It was the worst spasm in the lat 3 ½ years, since the first one took me out at dog beach in Del Mar.

Throughout our trip, Alaskans have remarked how much they appreciate that we took the time to see the real Alaska, not just take the common approach of a cruise and organized tour. I would urge anyone thinking about going Alaska to do the same. As with all travel, making your way is incredibly rewarding and you are more able to make sure your travel dollars go directly to locals instead of cruise or tour companies. Use the internet or get a guidebook, gear up and go!