Turku and Rauma

I’ve spent the last couple days exploring the southwest corner of Finland, specifically the towns of Turku and Rauma. Turku was the capitol of Finland until 1812, when the Russian tsar moved it to Helsinki. Some of old Turku remains, including a rambling castle begun in the 14th century, which is still standing due to may restorations and additions. The rest of the town is a mish mash of 18th and 19th century and modern buildings, lots of university students, and, it seems, all of the riff raff of Finland. Notwithstanding this lack of focus, the city dishes up great food, and I continue to be impressed with the innovation. Who would have thought a cepes (mushroom) brulee would work? Or that I would enjoy deep fried beef tongue with my celery root soup? My least enjoyable meal was at the Viking themed, over-the-top kitsch restaurant that was much recommended in my guide book and the tourist office.

On the second day, despite 32F weather and freezing rain, I took a bus 90 km to the north to visit Rauma, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized as a unique example of medieval architecture. Such a billing made me think of dark wood and stone huts. But the town looks remarkably like Porvoo, a blend of architecture from the 18th and 19th centuries. (I always thought of “medieval” as being a bit before that…) It was charming nonetheless, and I had a tranquil (dry) walk along the cobbled streets, with stops only for coffee and Rauma biscuits (which taste just like gingersnaps).

Tomorrow I take the train back to Helsinki, then right onto a ferry to Tallinn, Estonia – a short 2 hour hop across the Gulf of Finland.