Easy Rider

While Da Lat is certainly smaller than Saigon, it has its fair share of motorbikes plaguing the city, which beep incessantly as they careen down the narrow streets and through the markets. It is not a peaceful city by any means. So it was nice to discover that on Sunday nights, the streets around the city center are closed to all motor traffic and the area turned into a pedestrian friendly zone. Families were out strolling, eating from the many food vendors and generally enjoying the blessed quiet.

The next morning I saddled up and hit the road with Mr. Hiep, my guide, for a 3 day tour ending in Nha Trang, at the coast. At first it seemed ridiculous to get my big bag on the back of a 125 cc motorcycle, but when you see what kind of loads people here carry on their motorbikes (which are just mopeds), it does not look unusual at all. It was a little cramped, but it sure beats a bus from hell. We were able to visit a K’ho (minority people) village along the way that is known as the Chicken Village. The best my guide could explain was that they built a big rooster to emulate the roosters seen on the top of churches (which I take to have been weather vanes). Within this Christian village, a lone Buddhist nun keeps a small temple and makes incense for sale, the proceeds of which she uses to provide medical care to the village children. I liked that she had 2 fluffy little dogs, which she treated like children.

I am staying the night in Lak Lake, a small and very quiet town (empty streets!!!). Not many tourists stay there, and it looks like few people eat out. The dinner was perhaps the worst meal I have had on my journey so far, and I just hope I don’t get sick. Despite this, I like that I have landed in a less touristed area of Vietnam, so perhaps can get a better picture of the real deal.