Phnom Penh, the capitol of Cambodia, is frenetic, like many Asian cities. As elsewhere in Cambodia, there are no rules of the road other than the biggest vehicle has the right of way. Pedestrians are the smallest, and risk life and limb walking the streets. The constant queries of “tuk tuk?” or “hey laaaaady, moto-bike?” seem justified in trying to keep tourists from walking anywhere, since walking is most unpleasant in this city. Perhaps the biggest scofflaws are the legions of moped (moto-bike) riders, who turn without looking, race down the wrong side of the street, drive on sidewalks and generally do whatever will get them from Point A to Point B the fastest.
The most popular thing to do in Phnom Penh (some would argue it’s the only thing to do), is go to the infamous S-21 security prison of the Khmer Rouge, since turned into a museum and memorial to the thousands of prisoners held and tortured there, and the 3 million other people who died at the hands of the Khmer Rouge (many as a result of starvation). I also went to the outskirts of town to see the “Killing Fields” where the prisoners of S-21 were taken to be killed and buried in mass graves. The shrine erected there (shown in the photo above) houses more than 9,000 human skulls excavated at the site.
After the morning, I felt a bit emotionally drained. The Khmer Rouge documented with photographs the prisoners at S-21, and the photos are on display. Fear is evident in the eyes of many, and one silently wishes that time has brought them peace (Buddhists believe that without cremation, the soul is not released. No prisoners were cremated).
Tomorrow I take the bus to Ho Chi Minh City, fka Saigon. I hope that even after leaving Cambodia I continue to learn about this fascinating country and return someday. (Indeed, I purchased a book on the history of the Khmer Rouge regime, and hope to read it while I am still traveling).
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